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Line 115: − − =Building the Zynthian Kit parts= − − ===Some general recommendations=== − − '''1.''' Be careful to protect the components from [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrostatic-sensitive_device electrostatic discharge]. This is most critical for the ICs and the diodes. Be careful with your fingers. Your body can hold a good amount of static electric charge. Under some circumstances that charge can be drained through some of the components that you are handling and this could break the component. Try to hold the PCBs by the borders and discharge your body frequently touching some "ground" with your fingers. − − '''2.''' Before soldering, please, check that you are soldering in the right side of PCB, also that components orientation is correct (ICs, diode) − − '''3.''' When soldering, always avoid overheating. Electronic components doesn't like overheat! This is specially important when soldering the big connector in the HifiBerry soundcard. If you overheat the circuit, probably you will break some electronic component and you will end with a dead board. I recommend to use a fan while soldering. If not, you can use your mouth ;-) Also, don't solder the contacts in order. It's better to jump from one to another in the oposite corner. If you are not sure of your soldering skills, please, take your time and do some practice with inexpensive components and prototyping board. − − '''4.''' After finishig the soldering, brush smoothly all the contacts. You may use a small iron brush. After that, blow over the circuit to remove any remaining tin. − − '''5.''' Inspect visually all the soldered contacts. You could use a magnifying glass for verifying that every soldered pin looks good. If you are not sure, perhaps you could add more tin or re-solder the pin. Also, you could use a multimeter for testing the dubious contacts. − − '''6.''' And of course, double-check everything! Assembling and wiring process are prone to errors. Don't be too confident ;-) − Re-check component's orientation (ICs and diode), wiring, etc. − − ===Assembling the Controller Modules=== − − The controller module kit is composed of: − − + 4 x controller PCBs − + 4 x rotary encoders with switch (PEC11R-4215K-S0024) − + 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1) − + 8 x ceramic capacitor 10nF (c2, c3) − + 4 x 4-pin JST male-angle connector − − [[File:IMG_4728.JPG|600px]] − − This components are used to build the 4 controller modules that form the input side of the physical ''Zynthian User Interface''. Each controller embed an incremental rotary encoder and a switch, so 4 wires (A,B,SW,GND) are needed for connecting it. − − [[File:IMG_4731.JPG|600px]] − − These are the steps for building one module: − − 0. Be sure that you have read and understdood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]]. − 1. Bend the encoder's securing tabs to 75º, so you can insert it in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Please, be very careful when bending the tabs as the encoder case is quite fragil and could be deformed. I recommend to use a small plier and not reaching to 90º. − 2. Place the 100nF capacitor in C1 position (the most right!). This is for debouncing the push switch (SW). − 3. Place the 2 x 10nF capacitors in C2 & C3 positions. These are for debouncing the rotary encoder contacts (A,B). − 3. Solder the encoder and capacitors carefully. − 4. Place the JST connector in the downside of the PCB, with the angle pins facing inwards (look the photo!) − 5. Solder the JST connector carefully. − 7. Use the plier to close the encoder's tabs again, trying to "catch" the PCB. − − [[File:IMG_4781.JPG|600px]] − − You have to build 4 controller modules, so you to have to repeat the steps 4 times. − − ===Assembling the All-In-One Module=== − − The All-In-One module kit is composed of: − − + 1 x All-In-One PCB − + 1 x GPIO-expander MCP23017 => 28-pin IC − + 3 x opto-coupler H11L1 (OC1,OC2,OC3) => 6-pin IC − + 3 x diode 1N4148 (D1,D3,D4) − + 1 x diode 1N5819 (D2) − + 3 x resistor 1K (R3,R4,R9) => brown-black-red (*) − + 1 x resistor 10K (R10) => brown-black-orange (*) − + 1 x resistor 100 (R1) => brown-black-brown (*) − + 2 x resistor 4K7 (R5,R7) => yellow-purple-red (*) − + 3 x resistor 470 (R2,R6,R8) => yellow-purple-brown (*) − + 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1,C2,C3,C4) − + 7 x 4-pin JST male connector − + 1 x 40-pin-double-row male connector − − (*) Read from left to right with the tolerance ring (gold or silver) on the right. − − [[File:IMG_4726.JPG|800px]] − − − These are the steps for building the All-In-One module: − − 0. Be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]]. − 1. Place the passive components (resistors & capacitors) in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). − 2. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! − 3. Place the ICs and diodes in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Put attention to the orientation of these components!! − 4. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! (*) − 5. Place the connectors in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). − 6. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! (*) − − (*) You could use some tape for fixing the components while soldering, specially for ICs and connectors. − − [[File:IMG_1251.JPG|800px]] − − [[File:IMG_1252.JPG|800px]] − − [[File:IMG_1277.JPG|800px]] − − ===Tweaking the HifiBerry DAC+ soundcard=== − − If you are using the HifiBerry DAC+ soundcard (also lite & pro versions), you should add 2 extra connectors to the board: − − + 40 row-pin GPIO male connector, for connecting the '''main ribbon bus cable''' − + 3 pin header connector, for connecting the extra audio line-out Jack connectors − − Both connectors must be placed on the top side of the board, so you should solder the contacts on the bottom side. − − '''WARNING!''' Soldering the big 40-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]]. − − [[File:IMG_1369.JPG|600px]] − − [[File:IMG_1370.JPG|600px]] − − ===Tweaking the OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5' touch-display=== − − The standard OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5 'touch-display have 2 connectors: a female connector ready for connecting the display as a hat and a male connector placed in the side. The official aluminum case and the ribbon cable are designed for the side male connector. The female connector can be annoying and should be removed for better closing the case. − − If you got your PiScreen from a "Bundle-All" kit, you probably don't have this annoying female connector, so you are lucky and don't need to do anything here. If you have it, then take the saw and remove the connector carefully. − − ===Other Soundcards and Displays=== − − If you are using a different soundcard or display, you'll have to see the best way to integrate it. If you do so, please, don't forget to give good feedbak in the forum or here, in the wiki. − − In the forum you can see what other users have done, and of course, don't doubt to ask whatever you want! − − https://discourse.zynthian.org/c/building-zynthian − − ===Building the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors=== − − Before mounting the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires that allow connecting it to the All-In-One circuit using a JST connector. Doing it in that way is rather more comfortable than trying to solder inside the case with all the wiring mess. − − [[File:IMG_4777.JPG|600px]] − − '''JST Connector wires'''[[File:Midiconnfront.jpg|340px|right]] − − * JST White (1) => LED's Anode (LED's red wire/long lead) − * JST Yellow (2) => LED's Cathode (LED's black wire/short lead) − * JST Black (3) => pin 5 of MIDI connector − * JST Red (4) => pin 4 of MIDI connector − − If you want (i strongly recommend you do it!), you can protect the contacts using heat-shrink sleeve (the red sleeve pieces in the photo). In that case, remember to insert the sleeve pieces before soldering ;-) − − [[File:IMG_1276.JPG|600px]] − − − Depending of your case version, you will need to build 2 or 3 MIDI connectors. − − ===Building the JACK Audio-Out connectors=== − − In the same way, before mounting the Jack connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires. You can use heat-shrink sleeve too. − − [[File:IMG_4774.JPG|600px]] − − [[File:IMG_1272.JPG|600px]]
Building a Zynthian Box using an official Kit v3 (view source)
Revision as of 13:27, 11 July 2019
, 13:27, 11 July 2019→Building the Zynthian Kit parts
- [[Zynthian_Images_Enclosures|Zynthian Enclosures]]
- [[Zynthian_Images_Enclosures|Zynthian Enclosures]]
- [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/success-cases/41 Success Cases]
- [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/success-cases/41 Success Cases]
=Assembling your Zynthian Box=
=Assembling your Zynthian Box=