Changes

8,540 bytes added , 17:10, 9 September 2020

Line 2: Line 2:

=Introduction=

−

This tutorial is mainly intended for those who are building a Zynthian Box using one of the ''official'' kits that i offer here:

+

This tutorial is mainly intended for those who are building a Zynthian Box using one of the ''official'' kits, that i offer here:

−

[~~https~~://~~discourse~~.zynthian.org~~/t/zynthian~~-~~kits/150/17 Getting~~ a Zynthian Kit]

+

[http://shop.zynthian.org Zynthian Shop]

+

Specifically, the instructions are for the assembly of kits v1 (version 1), those using the 2in1 circuit and the PiTFT 2.8' display. If you have a newer kit v2, based in the All-In-One circuit and the PiScreen 3.5' display, you better should read [[Building a Zynthian Box using an official Kit v2 | this updated tutorial]].

+

[[File:Zynthian_finished_02.jpg|600px]]

Anyway, it's quite detailed and can be used as a guide to build a custom Zynthian Box from scratch. Of course, you will have to be creative if you want to do it in that way ;-)

+

=Bill of Materials=

+

* Zynthian Basic Kit (custom PCBs, electronic parts, wiring and knobs). Visit the [http://shop.zynthian.org Zynthian Shop]

+

* Case kit, with nuts, bolts and case connectors. Visit the [http://shop.zynthian.org Zynthian Shop]

+

* Raspberry Pi 3 (or Raspberry Pi 2)

+

* [https://www.hifiberry.com/products/dacplus HifiBerry DAC+]

+

* PiTFT 2.8' TouchScreen

+

** [https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298 Resistive touchscreen] (less expensive)

+

** [https://www.adafruit.com/product/2423 Capacitive touchscreen] (better touch response)

+

* Power adapter for Raspberry Pi (5.1v 2.4A with microUSB connector)

=Some definitions=

Line 24: Line 39:

+ '''Zynthian User Interface''' ([https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-ui github repository])

−

All the software used by Zynthian is Free Software (free as in freedom, not as in free beer) and it's covered by the GPL license or similar. If you don't know what i'm talking about, please, take a look to this:

+

All the software used by Zynthian is Free Software (free as in ''freedom'', not as in ''free beer'') and it's covered by the GPL license or similar. If you don't know what i'm talking about, please, take a look to this:

[https://www.gnu.org/philosophy/free-sw.en.html What is Free Software?]

−

The easiest way of getting the software is downloading the last "official" SD image from here:

+

The easiest way of getting the software is downloading the last ''official'' SD image from here:

−

'''[https://~~discourse~~.zynthian.org/~~t/merry~~-~~zynthians~~-~~and-happy-new-sd-image/314~~ Download ~~Zynthian "Gorgona"~~ SD-image]'''

+

'''[https://os.zynthian.org/zynthianos-last-stable.zip Download Last Stable ZynthianOS SD-image ]'''

−

~~This SD-~~image ~~include all~~ the ~~zynthian software properly configured and ready to use. Plug and play~~! ;-)

+

It's a 8GB compressed image file (plenty of soundfonts) compiled for Raspberry Pi 3. (Please, keep feeding the torrent after downloading!)

−

After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to a ~~SD-card~~. ~~Depending on your OS you have to choose how to create the~~ SD-card~~. You need~~ a minimum size of 16GB ~~for~~ the ~~full ''Gorgona''~~ image ~~and 8GB for~~ the ~~''Gorgonilla'' lite image~~. There is a really good manual for this at [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ ~~https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/~~].

+

These SD card images include all the Zynthian software, properly configured for working with the official kits. Completely ready to use. Plug and play!

+

After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to a SDcard. You need a SD card with a minimum size of 16GB, although you can use a bigger one if you want.

+

Use Etcher https://etcher.io/ (free software works on Mac, Windows or Linux) to flash the image onto the SDcard.

+

Or do it manually: There is a really good manual for this at [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ this link].

If you prefer, you can build your own SD image following these instructions:

Line 44: Line 65:

A Zynthian Box is a hardware device, a small digital computer designed to run the Zynthian Software. Currently it's based in the Raspberry Pi platform, but it could be easily adapted to other computer platforms.

−

This is a sketch with the main blocks of the official Zynthian Box:

+

This is a sketch with the main blocks of the ''official'' Zynthian Box:

−

[[File:Zynthian_hardware_scheme.png|~~600px~~]]

+

[[File:Zynthian_hardware_scheme.png|800px]]

−

In the project's repositories you will find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Herber files, etc. to build your own ~~zynthian box~~ from scratch:

+

In the project's repositories you will find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Herber files, etc. to build your own Zynthian Box from scratch:

- [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Zynthian Hardware Repository]

- [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-case Zynthian Case Repository]

−

The official version is the canonical reference. Of course, you don't have to build the official version. You can build your customized Zynthian Box modifying and improving what you want. If you do so, some feedback would be very appreciated ;-)

+

The ''official'' version is the canonical reference. Of course, you don't have to build the ''official'' version. You can build your customized Zynthian Box modifying and improving what you want. If you do so, some feedback would be very appreciated ;-)

===Zynthian Kit===

−

A Zynthian Kit is a set of specific and generic electronic modules designed or picked for building a Zynthian Box. This tutorial refers to the "official" Zynthian Kit, that is composed of ~~this~~ specific parts:

+

A Zynthian Kit is a set of specific and generic electronic modules designed or picked for building a Zynthian Box. This tutorial refers to the ''official'' Zynthian Kit, that is composed of these specific parts:

+ '''4 x Controller Modules''' (rotary encoder + switch)

Line 66: Line 87:

[[File:Zynthian_kit_assembled.jpg|600px]]

−

and ~~this~~ generic parts:

+

and these generic parts:

+ '''1 x Raspberry Pi 2/3'''

Line 72: Line 93:

+ '''1 x Adafruit PiTFT 2.8' ScreenTouch (or clonic)'''

−

Of course, other arrangements and combinations are possible ~~and~~ some ~~people is working on them~~:

+

Of course, other arrangements and combinations are possible. You can easily configure your hardware using the [http://wiki.zynthian.org/index.php/Configuration_Users_Guide Webconf Tool], or if it doesn't work, tweaking from the [http://wiki.zynthian.org/index.php/Command_Line_User_Guide command line].

+

You can take a look to some of the alternate builds made by some community members:

- [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/a-build-with-variations/324 A build with variations, by vagnscott]

- [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/another-wiring/333 Another Wiring, by Imager]

+

- [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/success-cases/41 Success Cases]

===Zynthian Case===

−

It's the enclosure used to put on all the parts. Again, this tutorial refers to the "official" Zynthian Aluminum Case, that is designed to be used in conjunction with the official Kit.

+

It's the enclosure used to put on all the parts. Again, this tutorial refers to the ''official'' Zynthian Aluminum Case, that is designed to be used in conjunction with the ''official'' Kit.

This case is available as a kit, including all the needed connectors, knobs, bolts & nuts:

Line 94: Line 118:

===Prerequisites===

−

Building your own Zynthian Box is not very difficult, but you will need all your attention ~~and~~ some basic tools and skills. Read the instructions and observe the detailed photos carefully. If you get in trouble you can ask the community:

+

Building your own Zynthian Box is not very difficult, but you will need all your attention, some basic tools and a few skills. Read the instructions and observe the detailed photos carefully. If you get in trouble you can ask the community:

https://discourse.zynthian.org

Line 105: Line 129:

+ Basic understanding of reading basic electronic circuit diagrams

+ Enjoyment of work with electronic hardware and parts

+

If you have not soldered before, you should read a [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/soldering/thm.html good soldering tutorial], or perhaps you would prefer the [http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf Soldering is Easy] comic book by [http://mightyohm.com/ MightOhm].

====Tools====

+

And this is the list of required and recommended tools:

+ Soldering iron

+ Tin-solder

−

+ ~~Screw drivers~~

+

+ Wire-cutter

−

+ Small ~~Pliers~~

+

+ Small Plier

−

+ ~~Side cutter~~

+

+ Screw-drivers Philips

+

+ Wrench, for potentiometer nuts (recommended)

+ PCB holder for soldering (very recommended!)

−

+ Small iron brush (recommended)

+

+ Small iron brush (very recommended!)

+ Magnifiying glass (recommended)

+ A vice (recommended)

+

+ A hand saw for metal (recommended)

+ Multimeter (recommended!)

===Some general recommendations===

−

'''1.''' Be careful with your fingers. Your body can hold a good amount of static electric charge. Under some circumstances that charge can be drained through some of the components that you are handling and this could break the component. Try to hold the PCBs by the borders and discharge your body frequently touching some "ground" with your fingers.

+

'''1.''' Be careful to protect the components from [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrostatic-sensitive_device electrostatic discharge]. This is most critical for the ICs and the diodes. Be careful with your fingers. Your body can hold a good amount of static electric charge. Under some circumstances that charge can be drained through some of the components that you are handling and this could break the component. Try to hold the PCBs by the borders and discharge your body frequently touching some "ground" with your fingers.

−

'''2.''' When soldering, remember to avoid overheating. This is specially important when soldering the big connectors in the HifiBerry soundcard and the PiTFT touchscreen. If you overheat the circuit, probably you will break some electronic component and you will end with a dead board. The better is using a fan while soldering. If not, you can use your mouth ;-) Also, don't solder the pins in order. It's better to jump from one to another in the oposite corner. If you are not sure of your soldering skills, please, take your time and do some practice with cheap components and prototyping board.

−

'''3.''' ~~After finishig the~~ soldering, ~~brush smoothly all~~ the ~~contacts. You may use a small iron brush. After~~ that, ~~blow over the circuit to remove any remaining tin.~~

+

'''2.''' Before soldering, please, check that you are soldering in the right side of PCB, also that components orientation is correct (ICs, diode)

+

'''3.''' When soldering, always avoid overheating. Electronic components doesn't like overheat! This is specially important when soldering the big connectors in the HifiBerry soundcard and the PiTFT touchscreen. If you overheat the circuit, probably you will break some electronic component and you will end with a dead board. I recommend to use a fan while soldering. If not, you can use your mouth ;-) Also, don't solder the contacts in order. It's better to jump from one to another in the oposite corner. If you are not sure of your soldering skills, please, take your time and do some practice with inexpensive components and prototyping board.

−

'''4.''' ~~Inspect visually~~ all the ~~soldered~~ contacts. You ~~could~~ use a ~~magnifying glass for verifying~~ that ~~every soldered pin looks good. If you are not sure~~, ~~perhaps you could add more~~ tin ~~or re-solder the pin. Also, you could use a multimeter for testing the dubious contacts~~.

+

'''4.''' After finishig the soldering, brush smoothly all the contacts. You may use a small iron brush. After that, blow over the circuit to remove any remaining tin.

+

'''5.''' Inspect visually all the soldered contacts. You could use a magnifying glass for verifying that every soldered pin looks good. If you are not sure, perhaps you could add more tin or re-solder the pin. Also, you could use a multimeter for testing the dubious contacts.

−

'''5.''' And of course, double-check everything! Assembling and wiring process are prone to errors. Don't be too confident ;-)

+

'''6.''' And of course, double-check everything! Assembling and wiring process are prone to errors. Don't be too confident ;-)

+

Re-check component's orientation (ICs and diode), wiring, etc.

===Assembling the Controller Modules===

Line 142: Line 171:

+ 4 x rotary encoders with switch (PEC11R-4215K-S0024)

+ 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1)

+

+ 8 x ceramic capacitor 10nF (c2, c3)

+ 4 x 4-pin-row male connector (angle)

Line 150: Line 180:

These are the steps for building one module:

−

0. Be sure that you have ~~readed~~ and ~~understanded~~ [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

+

0. Be sure that you have read and understdood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

−

1. Bend the encoder's securing tabs to 75º, so you can insert it in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Please, be very careful when bending the tabs as the encoder case is quite fragil and could be deformed. I recommend to use small ~~pliers~~ and not reaching to 90º.

+

1. Bend the encoder's securing tabs to 75º, so you can insert it in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Please, be very careful when bending the tabs as the encoder case is quite fragil and could be deformed. I recommend to use a small plier and not reaching to 90º.

−

2. Place the capacitor in ~~the~~ C1 position (the most right!)

+

2. Place the 100nF capacitor in C1 position (the most right!). This is for debouncing the push switch.

−

3. Solder the encoder and ~~capacitor~~ carefully.

+

3. Place the 2 x 10nF capacitors in C2 & C3 positions. These are for debouncing the rotary encoder contacts.

+

3. Solder the encoder and capacitors carefully.

4. Place the pin-row connector in the downside of the PCB, with the angle pins facing inwards (look the photo!)

5. Solder the pin-row carefully.

6. Bend the pin-row outwards a little bit, like shown in the photo. You can use a screw-driver or similar to do it.

−

7. Use the ~~pliers~~ to close the tabs again, trying to "catch" the PCB.

+

7. Use the plier to close the tabs again, trying to "catch" the PCB.

[[File:Controller_single_ensambled_top.jpg|290px]]

Line 169: Line 200:

+ 1 x 2in1 PCB

−

+ 1 x opto-coupler 6N138 => 8 ~~pins~~ IC

+

+ 1 x GPIO-expander MCP23008 => 18-pin IC

−

+ 1 x ~~dioode~~ 1N4148 (D1)

+

+ 1 x opto-coupler 6N138 => 8-pin IC

−

+ 1 x resistor 1K (R1) => ~~red~~-black-~~brown~~

+

+ 1 x diode 1N4148 (D1)

−

+ 1 x resistor 10K (R2) => ~~orange~~-black-~~brown~~

+

+ 1 x resistor 1K (R1) => brown-black-red (*)

−

+ 1 x resistor 220 (R3) => red-red-~~black~~

+

+ 1 x resistor 10K (R2) => brown-black-orange (*)

−

~~+ 1 x MCP23008 => 18 pins IC~~

+

+ 1 x resistor 220 (R3) => red-red-brown (*)

+ 2 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1, C2)

−

+ 1 x 8-row-pin male connector ~~(angle)~~

+

+ 1 x 8-row-pin male-angle connector

+ 1 x 6-row-pin male connector

+ 1 x 2-row-pin male connector

+

(*) Read from left to right with the tolerance ring (gold or silver) on the right.

[[File:2in1_kit.jpg|600px]]

Line 184: Line 217:

These are the steps for building the 2in1 module:

−

0. Be sure that you have ~~readed~~ and ~~understanded~~ [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

+

0. Be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

1. Place all the components in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Put attention to the orientation of the ICs and diode.

−

2. Solder the ~~encoder and capacitor~~ carefully.

+

2. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating!

[[File:2in1_ensambled.jpg|600px]]

Line 197: Line 230:

+ 3 pin header connector, for connecting the extra audio line-out Jack connectors

−

Both connectors must be placed on the top side of the board, so you should solder the ~~pins~~ on the bottom side.

+

Both connectors must be placed on the top side of the board, so you should solder the contacts on the bottom side.

−

'''WARNING!''' Soldering the big 40-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have ~~readed~~ and ~~understanded~~ [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

+

'''WARNING!''' Soldering the big 40-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

[[File:Hifiberry_dacplus_extra_connectors_unassembled.jpg|600px]]

Line 219: Line 252:

After removing the female connector, the side connector must be soldered. Note that you have to place it on the bottom side of the board, so you should solder the contacts on the top side.

−

'''WARNING!''' Soldering the 26-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have ~~readed~~ and ~~understanded~~ [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

+

'''WARNING!''' Soldering the 26-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].

[[File:Pitft_clonic_touchscreen_unassambled.jpg|600px]]

Line 225: Line 258:

[[File:Clonic_pitft_tweaked_connectors.jpg|600px]]

−

Frequently, clonic PiTFT touchscreens have 4 switches welded on it. These switches can be annoying when holding the display to the case. If the switches remain pressed after mounting, then it will cause problems as are connected to the GPIO and will conflict with the controller modules. The switches are easily pulled out by slighty turning each switch parallely to the board with a ~~pair of pliers~~.

+

Frequently, clonic PiTFT touchscreens have 4 switches welded on it. These switches can be annoying when holding the display to the case. If the switches remain pressed after mounting, then it will cause problems as are connected to the GPIO and will conflict with the controller modules. The switches are easily pulled out by slighty turning each switch parallely to the board with a plier.

[[File:Pitft_clonic_touchscreen_switches.jpg|600px]]

Line 238: Line 271:

https://discourse.zynthian.org/c/building-zynthian

−

===Building the MIDI-IN connector===

Line 253: Line 284:

===Building the JACK Audio-Out connectors===

−

In the same way, before mounting the Jack connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires. You can use heat-shrink ~~cable~~ sleeve too.

+

In the same way, before mounting the Jack connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires. You can use heat-shrink sleeve too.

[[File:Jack_connectors_unassambled.jpg|600px]]

−

[[File:~~Jack_connectors_assambled~~.jpg|600px]]

+

[[File:Jack_connectors_assembled_new.jpg|600px]]

=Case Mounting=

−

===~~Assembling~~ the Main Computing Block===

+

===Assemble the Main Computing Block===

The main computing block is composed by the RBPi and the HifiBerry soundcard, and shouold be assembled using the next set of separator & bolts:

Line 272: Line 303:

2. insert the Hifiberry soundcard in the RBPi.

3. screw the 4 bolts on top of the HifiBerry.

+

[[File:Main_computing_block_rbpi.jpg|600px]]

[[File:Main_computing_block_02.jpg|600px]]

Line 277: Line 310:

[[File:Main_computing_block.jpg|600px]]

−

===~~Holding~~ the Main Computing Block===

+

===Secure the Main Computing Block===

+

After assembling the main computing block, you should secure it to the case. Use 4 black M2.5 bolts (see photo above).

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_computing_block_01.jpg|600px]]

+

===Secure the 2in1 module===

+

Secure the 2in1 module to the case using the 2 nylon separators with nuts and the last 2 black M2.5 bolts.

+

[[File:bolts_2in1.jpg|150px]]

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_2in1_01.jpg|600px]]

+

===Secure the Jack connectors===

+

Put the rings on the outer side of the case to avoid damaging the case surface when you tighten the nuts.

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_jack_connectors_detail.jpg|600px]]

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_jack_connectors_top.jpg|600px]]

+

===Secure the MIDI-IN connector===

+

The ground connector goes upwards. I recommend to remove it with a plier as it could "touch" the controller row-pins when closing the case.

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_midi_connector_detail.jpg|600px]]

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_midi_connector_top.jpg|600px]]

−

===~~Holding~~ the ~~2in1 module~~===

+

===Secure the ScreenTouch===

−

~~===Holding~~ the ~~Jack connectors===~~

+

This step is a little bit tricky because the bolts & nuts are tiny, and it have some slack. Don't press too much the nuts. The PCB have to bend a little bit, but not too much. You should be capable of moving the display pushing the borders with your fingers. Later, when the screen is on, you will fine adjust the position for having the margins equalized.

−

~~===Holding~~ the ~~MIDI-IN connector===~~

+

'''Note:''' Before fixing the screen, don't forget to remove the protective plastic sheet!

−

===~~Holding~~ the ~~ScreenTouch~~===

+

[[File:bolts_screentouch.jpg|200px]]

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_display.jpg|600px]]

+

===Secure the Controllers===

+

[[File:zynthian_mounting_controllers.jpg|600px]]

+

===Insert the knobs===

+

You should insert the knobs into the encoders before closing the case. This will avoid forcing the encoders too much as otherwise, you could break them. Follow these simple steps and you wouldn't have any problem:

+

* moisten with water or saliva the encoder stem and the knob hole

+

* press the encoder PCB with the finger from the rear side while pushing the knob from the front side until is completely inserted

+

===Stick the rubber feet===

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_case_bottom.jpg|600px]]

=Connecting everything=

+

This is an easy connection guide, based in colored wires and images. If you want to know and understand the details (or if you have problems and need to ''debug''), you should take a look to the [[#Technical_Reference|Technical Reference]].

===Connect the Dupont Wires to the Main Ribbon Bus===

====Controller Module 4-pin Dupont Wires (x 4)====

+

The next scheme shows the numbering/naming used for encoders and switches:

+

[[File:zynthian_ui_legend.png]]

Take the 4 x "20cm 4-pin Dupont Connector Wires". These wires are used to connect the 4 controller modules to the RBPi GPIO:

Line 323: Line 405:

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_ribbon_wiring.jpg|600px]]

−

====Connect the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi====

+

===Connect the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi===

−

~~It's time to connect the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi GPIO. When looking to the case from the front side, the red wire must be in the right, like in the photo:~~

−

'~~''PHOTO NEEDED HERE!!'''~~

+

It's time to connect the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi GPIO. When looking to the case from the front side, the red wire must be in the right, like in the photo above.

−

It's also time to connect the two purple wires to the 2in1 module if you haven't done before.

+

It's also time to connect the two purple wires to the 2in1 module if you haven't done before. This two wires are for the upper switches: CH(1) and LS(3).

===Connect the Controller Modules (x4)===

−

This step is a bit tricky. ~~Remember that, if~~ you followed the instructions ~~before~~, you have soldered the pin-rows in the bottom side of PCBs, so numbering is reversed when looking from bottom. You can use a little trick: ~~if you~~ rotate the PCB 180º~~, then~~ numbering is "left to right" again ;-)

+

This step is a bit tricky. If you followed the instructions above, you have soldered the pin-rows in the bottom side of the controller PCBs, so numbering is reversed when looking from the bottom. You can use a little trick: rotate the PCB 180º and the numbering is "left to right" again ;-)

−

~~So '''~~you ~~should~~ look ~~at your controller modules from bottom side and with~~ the ~~pin-row on the top of PCB!''~~'

+

Anyway, if you take a look to the next photo, you shouldn't have any problem. Brown/green wires are #1.

−

[[File:~~Zynthian_mounting_controllers~~.jpg|600px]]

+

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_controllers_wiring.jpg|600px]]

−

'''Note:''' Some encoders have ~~reversed~~ pin ordering~~, so, if~~ you ~~buy~~ the encoders by yourself, perhaps you have to change A and B pins (brown<=>red, green<=>blue).

+

'''Note:''' Some encoders have a different pin ordering. If you bought the encoders by yourself, perhaps you have to change A and B pins (brown<=>red, green<=>blue).

===Connect the 2in1 Module===

Line 347: Line 427:

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_2in1_top.jpg|600px]]

−

Also connect the DIN-5 connector (MIDI-IN) to the 2in1 module. It's the 2-pin connector labeled as MIDI-IN.

+

Also, if you haven't done this before, connect the DIN-5 connector (MIDI-IN) to the 2in1 module. It's the 2-pin connector labeled as MIDI-IN.

−

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_2in1_case.jpg|~~600px~~]]

+

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_2in1_case.jpg|400px]]

+

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_connectors.jpg|400px]]

===Connect the Jack connectors===

−

~~And finally~~, connect the Jack connectors to the auxiliar on-board audio-out connector in the HifiBerry soundcard. ~~This is~~ the 3-pin connector that you soldered before:

+

If you haven't done this before, connect the Jack connectors to the auxiliar on-board audio-out connector in the HifiBerry soundcard. It's the 3-pin connector that you soldered before:

+

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_hifiberry_3pin_connector.jpg|600px]]

+

===Connect the ScreenTouch===

+

And finally, connect the ribbon's 26-pin connector to the ScreenTouch.

−

[[File:~~Zynthian_mounting_connectors~~.jpg|600px]]

+

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_controllers_wiring.jpg|600px]]

−

=Testing ~~the~~ Zynthian Box=

+

=Testing your Zynthian Box=

And that's all. Your Zynthian Box is almost ready to boot. I recommend that you double-check everything before trying to boot.

Line 369: Line 456:

When you are pretty sure that everything is in its place, it's time to boot by first time, so:

−

1. ~~insert~~ the SD-card with the zynthian image ready to run

+

1. Insert the SD-card with the zynthian image ready to run. If you don't have one yet, [[#Zynthian_Software|read this]].

−

2. ~~plug~~ the mini-usb power ~~cord~~

+

2. Plug the mini-usb power conector. A good 5V micro-usb charger is recommended (> 1 Amp).

These are the stages that you should see while booting:

Line 377: Line 464:

2. After 5-10 seconds, it will show the Zynthian splash screen

3. After 1-2 seconds, it will go black

−

4. If you are using a fresh zynthian image, the stages 2 and 3 will be repeated

+

4. If you are using a fresh zynthian image and it's the first boot, the stages 2 and 3 will be repeated

5. After 5-10 seconds, the zynthian UI will be shown

Line 430: Line 517:

5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing

−

If you ~~don't listen~~ nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].

+

If you hear nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].

===Test the MIDI subsystem===

Line 440: Line 527:

5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing

−

If you ~~don't listen~~ nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].

+

If you hear nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].

===Test the MIDI-USB inputs===

−

~~TODO!~~

+

1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.

+

2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument

+

3. Connect a MIDI-USB keyboard to any USB port. The keyboard should be configured to use channel #1.

+

3. After 2-3 seconds , play something with your keyboard. A simple ''Chopin's Nocturni'' would be enough. You should hear your music ;-)

+

If this doesn't work, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].

===Test the MIDI-IN connector===

−

~~TODO~~!

+

1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.

+

2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument

+

3. Connect your keyboard's MIDI-OUT to the Zynthian's MIDI-IN using a MIDI cable. The keyboard should be configured to use channel #1.

+

3. After 2-3 seconds, play something with your keyboard. OK! A single melody can do the task. You should hear your song ;-)

+

If this doesn't work, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].

=Close the Case=

−

~~Closing~~ the case can be a little bit tricky. Take your time to see how the cables ...

+

When everything is working OK, it's time to close the case.

+

This can be a little bit tricky. Take your time to see how to bend and drive the cables to get a good fitting.

+

[[File:Zynthian_mounting_case_open.jpg|600px]]

+

[[File:Zynthian_finished_01.jpg|600px]]

+

Finally, screw-drive the 8 sheet-threader bolts for securing the case, 4 each side.

+

=Update your Zynthian Box=

+

If you are using the official Zynthian SD Image, the first thing you should do after booting up your Zynthian Box and having the controllers working OK is update the software:

+

- connect the Zynthian Box to your router using a RJ45 cable

+

- '''update zynthian software''' from the admin menu

+

- '''update zynthian library''' from the admin menu

+

- '''restart GUI''' (or '''reboot''') from the admin menu

+

The update process can take some time. Be patient. If you get some ERROR message while updating, please, [[https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/problems-updating-the-software-from-the-admin-menu/386|ask in the forum]]. You can send a photo or description of the error message.

=Locating and Solving problems=

Line 460: Line 576:

For finding and solving problems, i really recommend to connect a HDMI display to the RBPi. It will give you accurate information during the booting sequence. Also, if you connect a USB keyboard, you can login into the system and get extra information, inspect the logs, etc.

−

===The display ~~don~~'t go white in ~~the~~ boot stage 1===

+

===The display doesn't go white in boot stage 1===

I recommend you disconnect the controller and 2in1 modules and try to boot again.

If the problem persist it's very probable you haven't solder correctly the side 26-pin connector. You should double check the connector and be sure that it's correctly soldered.

−

===The display ~~don~~'t show the ~~zynthian~~ splash screen in ~~the~~ boot stage 2===

+

===The display doesn't show the Zynthian splash screen in boot stage 2===

In that case, probably the system is not booting correctly. You could try to connect a HDMI display and see if the system is booting. If you can't see the booting sequence, then you should re-burn your SD-card with the Zynthian image. Also, check that your image file is correct by using the SHA1 signature.

+

===The display is completely white===

+

The latest SD Gorgona Edge image is pre-configured for the new v2 Kit. As you are using a Kit v1, you should access the Webconf tool (see [[Configuration_Users_Guide]]) using your browser and change these options:

+

Display: PiTFT 2.8’ Resistive

+

Wiring Layout: PROTOTYPE-4

+

Style -> Font Size: 10

+

'''More coming soon ...'''

+

===You can't solve the problem===

+

If you can't find a solution for your problem, ask the community:

+

https://discourse.zynthian.com

+

Also, if you found a solution for a problem not described here, please send feedback to the community, or better, edit this wiki! ;-)

=Technical Reference=

Line 475: Line 608:

You can find all this info and much more in the project's [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Hardware Repository].

−

===~~Electric Scheme~~===

+

===Electrical Schematic===

−

This is the ~~electric scheme~~ of a Zynthian Box, excluding soundcard and display:

+

This is the electrical schematic of a Zynthian Box, excluding the soundcard and display:

[[File:Zynthian_scheme_GPIO.png|800px]]

Line 572: Line 705:

|-

|}

+

EDIT from music.friend: I think that actually the 2nd from left pin

+

of the MIDI IN socket carries the pin number 5. Pint 2 of the MIDI IN

+

socket is used for MIDI OUT and MIDI THHRU for shielding (Connection to GND),

+

while the MIDI IN socket has no direct connection to the receiver, otherwise

+

the Optocoupler does not really make sense.

+

NOTE: This is my first WIKI edit - please forgive me if i have misssed to

+

follow existing style or other rules.

Jofemodo

Bureaucrats, Interface administrators, Suppressors, Administrators

3,418

edits

Changes

Building a Zynthian Box using an official Kit (view source)

Revision as of 17:10, 9 September 2020

Navigation menu

Search