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Updates to Zynductor Passive Cooler section + Close the case section notebox
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  '''[https://os.zynthian.org/zynthianos-last-stable.zip Download Last Stable ZynthianOS SD-image]'''
 
  '''[https://os.zynthian.org/zynthianos-last-stable.zip Download Last Stable ZynthianOS SD-image]'''
   −
It's a compressed image file (plenty of soundfonts) compiled for Raspberry Pi 3. The SD-card images include all the Zynthian software, properly configured for working with the official kits. Completely ready to use. Plug and play!  
+
It's a compressed image file (plenty of soundfonts) compiled for Raspberry Pi 3 and Raspberry Pi 4. The SD-card images include all the Zynthian software, properly configured for working with the official kits. Completely ready to use. Plug and play!  
    
After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to your micro-SD card. You need a '''micro-SD card with a minimum size of 16 GB'''.
 
After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to your micro-SD card. You need a '''micro-SD card with a minimum size of 16 GB'''.
   −
If you don't know how to do it, you can use [https://etcher.io/ Etcher] (free software, works on Mac, Windows or Linux) to flash the image onto the micro-SD card. Or do it manually! There is a really good manual for this at [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ this link].
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If you don't know how to do it, you can use [https://www.raspberrypi.org/software/ Raspberry Pi Imager] or [https://etcher.io/ Etcher] (free software, works on Mac, Windows or Linux) to flash the image onto the micro-SD card. Or do it manually! There is a really good manual for this at [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ this link].
    
you can also build your own SD image following these instructions:
 
you can also build your own SD image following these instructions:
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In the project's repositories you can find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Herber files, etc. to build your own Zynthian Box from scratch:
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In the project's repositories you can find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Gerber files, etc. to build your own Zynthian Box from scratch:
    
  - [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Zynthian Hardware Repository]
 
  - [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Zynthian Hardware Repository]
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  https://discourse.zynthian.org
 
  https://discourse.zynthian.org
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{{WarningBox|Please, handle electronic parts with care, specially the display, as they are easily damaged.}}
+
{{WarningBox|Please, handle electronic parts with care, specially the display, as they are easily damaged. Touch grounded metal before starting, e.g. a radiator or desk lamp to discharge static electricity and avoid wearing synthetic fibre clothing, e.g. polyester shirt.}}
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
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===Secure the balanced audio output jack-TS connectors ===
 
===Secure the balanced audio output jack-TS connectors ===
   −
These 2 connectors are pre-assembled together and share a single harness with 3 wires ended with a 3-pin dupont connector.
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These are 2 separated connectors with a 3-wire harness each, ended with 3 x 1-pin DuPont connectors. One of them have a '''red circle sticker that MUST be mounted on the Right (R) audio Out'''"
 
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Insert the jack connectors into the 2 holes labeled as ''audio OUT''. You have to insert them from inside the case and secure them with the washers and nuts from the outside. The washers will keep the nut from damaging the case. Use a wrench for tightening the nuts, but not too much!!
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Insert the jack connectors into the 2 holes labelled as ''audio OUT''. You have to insert them from inside the case and secure them with the washers and nuts from the outside. The washers will keep the nut from damaging the case. Use a wrench for tightening the nuts, but not too much!!
      −
[[File:IMG_2886_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:Zynthian_case_connectors_v41_red.jpg|400px]]
[[File:IMG_2890_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:IMG_2890_OK_1024_fixv41.JPG|400px]]
[[File:IMG_2895_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:IMG_2895_OK_1024_red.JPG|400px]]
    
===Secure the balanced audio input jack-TRS connectors===
 
===Secure the balanced audio input jack-TRS connectors===
   −
These are 2 separated connectors with a 3-wire harness each, ended with 3 x 1-pin dupont connectors.
+
These are 2 separated connectors with a 3-wire harness each, ended with 3 x 1-pin DuPont connectors.
    
Insert the jack connectors into the 2 holes labeled as ''audio IN''. You have to insert them from inside the box and secure them with the washers and nuts from the outside. The washers will keep the nut from damaging the case. Use a wrench for tightening the nuts, but not too much!
 
Insert the jack connectors into the 2 holes labeled as ''audio IN''. You have to insert them from inside the box and secure them with the washers and nuts from the outside. The washers will keep the nut from damaging the case. Use a wrench for tightening the nuts, but not too much!
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[[File:IMG_2886_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2886_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
[[File:IMG_2896_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:IMG_2896_OK_1024_fixv41.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2898_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2898_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:IMG_2887_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2887_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
[[File:IMG_2903_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:IMG_2903_OK_1024_fixv41.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2915_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2915_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
    
===Mount the MIDI activity LEDS===
 
===Mount the MIDI activity LEDS===
   −
Insert the 3 LEDS in the case from the outside, leaving the short lead at left. Make sure you push the LEDs by the plastic around the LED, not the LED itself.
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Insert the 3 LEDS in the case from the outside, with the short lead on the left looking from within the case. Make sure you push the LEDs by the plastic collar around the LED, not the LED itself. This may require some force due to the friction fit of the LED within the hole. This may be assisted with a small tube with internal diameter of approximately 3mm, e.g. 3-4mm socket spanner or the narrow end of the plastic body of a ball point pen (with its stylus removed).
       
[[File:IMG_2888_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2888_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
[[File:IMG2403.JPG|400px]]
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[[File:IMG2403_fixv41.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2926_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2926_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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When it's done, you have to plug the LED wires into the 2 spare "DUPONT" connectors from the MIDI harness (green & yellow wires). Polarity is important, so don't cross the wires:
 
When it's done, you have to plug the LED wires into the 2 spare "DUPONT" connectors from the MIDI harness (green & yellow wires). Polarity is important, so don't cross the wires:
   −
  * JST Green wire (1) => LED's Anode (LED's long lead)
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  * JST Green wire (1) => LED's long lead (Anode)
  * JST Yellow wire (2) => LED's Cathode (LED's short lead)
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  * JST Yellow wire (2) => LED's short lead (LED's Cathode)
   −
Since the LED's leads are too long, you will want to cut them down to about 7-8mm. Make sure you remember which lead is the short one. When inserting the dupont connector, if you feel that it doesn't grab the pins enough, you should press the tiny metal-jacket inside the plastic capsule to make it narrow. It's easy, simply put the dupont connector over the desk and press the metal with the screwdriver tip or something like that.
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Since the LED's leads are too long, you will want to cut them down to about 7-8mm. Make sure you remember which lead is the short one. (You could mark the inside of the case with pencil as a reminder.) When inserting the DuPont connector, if you feel that it doesn't grab the pins enough, you should press the tiny metal-jacket inside the plastic capsule to make it narrow. It's easy, simply put the DuPont connector over the desk and press the metal with the screwdriver tip or something like that.
   −
[[File:IMG2406.JPG|800px]]
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[[File:IMG2406_fixv41.JPG|800px]]
      −
{{NoteBox|If you don’t connect the status LEDs, the MIDI-OUT and MIDI-THRU won’t work unless you short the JP1 & JP2 jumpers on the zynaptik board.}}
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{{NoteBox|If wish to omit the status LEDs you must short JP1 & JP2 jumpers on the Zynaptik board otherwise the MIDI-OUT and MIDI-THRU won’t work.}}
    
===Prepare the Zynductor Passive Cooler===
 
===Prepare the Zynductor Passive Cooler===
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===Secure the Main Computing Block and assemble the Zynductor Passive Cooler===
 
===Secure the Main Computing Block and assemble the Zynductor Passive Cooler===
   −
The main computing block consists of the Raspberry Pi and the HifiBerry soundcard,and is assembled using separators and bolts. The Zynductor passive cooler is a little piece of aluminum that sticks to the RBPi's CPU and the aluminum case, creating a thermal channel for evacuating the heat generated by the RBPi's CPU. For getting the best performance, you have to put all your attention and follow carefully these steps:  
+
{{NoteBox|Although you are able to swap and change SD cards on your completed Zynthian, if you already have an SD card with the latest stable image ready to go, you can save yourself some fiddling about later by inserting it into the Pi now. }}
 +
 
 +
The main computing block consists of the Raspberry Pi and the HifiBerry soundcard,and is assembled using separators and bolts. The Zynductor passive cooler is a little piece of aluminum that sticks to the RBPi's CPU and the aluminum case, creating a thermal channel for evacuating the heat generated by the RBPi's CPU. For getting the best performance, you have to follow carefully these steps:  
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   3. Remove the blue protective cover from the zynductor's square contact area, the one that contacts the RBPI's CPU. '''Don't remove the other one yet!!'''
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   3. Remove the blue protective covers from both the zynductor's contact area.
   4. Stick the zynductor over the RBPi's CPU, taking special care of assuring the contact between the aluminum case and the zynductor's long contact area, the one with the blue protective cover still there.
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   4. Stick the zynductor over the RBPi's CPU, taking special care of assuring the contact between the aluminum case and the zynductor's long contact area.
  5. Remove the RBPi from the case, untightening the tiny black blots.
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   6. Plug-in the HifiBerry soundcard on to the Raspberry Pi.
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   5. Plug-in the HifiBerry soundcard on to the Raspberry Pi.
   7. Fix the 4 screws on top of the HifiBerry to fix it in place.
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   6. Fix the 4 screws on top of the HifiBerry to fix it in place.
  8. Remove the blue protective cover from the zynductor's long contact area, the one that contacts the aluminum case.
  −
  9. Finally, fix the main computing block to the case, using the 4 remaining tiny black bolts M2.5 to secure it to the bottom of the case.  
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[[File:IMG_2995_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_2995_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_3011_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:IMG_3011_OK_1024.JPG|400px]]
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 +
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{{NoteBox|The Hifiberry DAC+ADC Stage may include some nylon spacers and bolts. You can choose to use these instead of the metal ones included with the Zynthian kit. }}
 +
 +
{{NoteBox|Note that the Hifiberry DAC+ADC Stage included in the 4.1 kit has no RCA connectors. Photos may show an older model, but these instructions are accurate for V4.1. }}
    
===Secure the Zynaptik module===
 
===Secure the Zynaptik module===
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Plug a wire on each controller. Fix the controllers in each corner using the nuts and washers attached to them.
 
Plug a wire on each controller. Fix the controllers in each corner using the nuts and washers attached to them.
  −
'''Don't mount the controllers like in the photo''', do it upside-down to avoid pressing the MIDI LED pins. I will update the photo ASAP.
      
[[File:Rotary&wire.JPG|400px]]
 
[[File:Rotary&wire.JPG|400px]]
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===Connect the Audio Output Jack connectors===
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===Connect the TSR Balanced Audio Connectors to the Hifiberry DAC+ADC Stage===
 
  −
Connect the audio output jack connectors to the audio-output header to the Hifiberry soundcard:
     −
[[File:dacplus-adc-top audio-out.jpg|350px]]
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Every TSR connector has 3 colored wires like this:
[[File:IMG_2414.JPG|450px]]
     −
The black wire on the "R" pin, white on the "L" one and red on "GND" (middle).
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* '''Red''' -> Signal +
 +
* '''White''' -> Signal -
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* '''Black''' -> Ground
   −
{{NoteBox|Some kits have flipped the red and white wires. This is not a problem. Simply look at the black wire.}}
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Each TSR connector must be connected to the 10-pin header (J1) on the Hifiberry DAC+ADC Stage:
   −
===Connect the Audio Input Jack connector===
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[[File:HifiBerryDACADC-Stage-header.jpg|450px]]
   −
This step depends of the specific model of your soundcard:
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First, connect the audio OUT TSR connectors like this:
   −
====HifiBerry DAC+ADC PRO====
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[[File:HifiBerryDACADC-Stage-connection-OUT.png|600px]]
   −
Connect the 2 x balanced input jack connectors to the audio-input header on the sound card using the 3x1 pin Dupont connectors as indicated in the image:
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And then, the audio IN TSR connectors like this:
 
  −
[[File:dacplusadcpro-top-audio-in.jpg|600px]]
  −
 
  −
I recommend you take a look at [https://www.hifiberry.com/docs/data-sheets/datasheet-dac-adc-pro Hifiberry DAC+ADC PRO specification].
      +
[[File:HifiBerryDACADC-Stage-connection-IN.png|600px]]
    
===Connect the Display===
 
===Connect the Display===
   −
Connect the ribbon's 26-pin connector to the display's connector. '''Pay attention to the orientation'''. The red wire should be the pin 1, which as marked on the display's PCB surface. Probably you need to remove the red-jumper that is plugged in the connectors pins 1-2, indicating the right position.
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Connect the ribbon's 26-pin connector to the display's connector. '''Pay attention to the orientation'''. The red wire should be on pin 1, as marked on the display's PCB surface. You '''MUST''' remove the red-jumper that is plugged in the connector, indicating the pin 1 position too.
      −
{{WarningBox|Please, double check this step carefully because you could break the display if it's connected reversed!!}}
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{{WarningBox|Please, double-check this step carefully because you could break the display if it's connected wrongly!!}}
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When you are sure that everything is in its place, it's time to boot the machine:
 
When you are sure that everything is in its place, it's time to boot the machine:
   −
  1. Insert the SD-card with the zynthian image. If you don't have one yet, [[#Zynthian_Software|read this]]. You can insert the SD-card through the "window" on the bottom-side of the case.  
+
  1. Insert the SD-card with the zynthian image. If you don't have one yet, [[#Zynthian_Software|read this]]. You can insert the SD-card through the "window" on the bottom-side of the case. The SD-card is inserted with the (gold) pins facing the top of the case and the manufacturer's print facing the bottom of the case.
 
  2. Plug the mini-usb power connector. A good 5V micro-usb charger is recommended (> 2 Amp).
 
  2. Plug the mini-usb power connector. A good 5V micro-usb charger is recommended (> 2 Amp).
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[[File:IMG_3148_OK_1024.JPG|800px]]
 
[[File:IMG_3148_OK_1024.JPG|800px]]
 +
 +
{{NoteBox| Be careful not to over-tighten the case screws, as it can buckle the top plate. If you notice the top place bowing slightly, loosen the screws a little until the surface is level. }}
 +
    
=Update your Zynthian Box=
 
=Update your Zynthian Box=
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[[File:Zynthian_zynaptik.svg|600px]]
 
[[File:Zynthian_zynaptik.svg|600px]]
   −
[[File:ZynScreen_v1.3.svg|600px]]
+
[[File:ZynScreen_v15_sch.svg|600px]]
    
You can find all this info and much more in the project's [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Hardware Repository].
 
You can find all this info and much more in the project's [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Hardware Repository].
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