Changes

7,051 bytes added , 5 June

→‎Install the thermal block

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* Rubber Feet (4 units)

* Wiring

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** RBPi5 DSI display flat cable: 20cm long, 1.6cm wide, 1mm/0.5mm pitch

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** RBPi5 DSI display flat cable: 20cm long, 1.6cm wide, 1mm/0.5mm pitch, black or orange

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** Control Board flat cable: 15cm long, 1cm wide, 0.5mm pitch

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** Control Board flat cable: 15cm long, 1cm wide, 0.5mm pitch, black or grey

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** USB-C adapter + flat cable: 5cm long, 1cm wide, 0.5mm pitch

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** USB-C adapter + flat cable: 5cm long, 1cm wide, 0.5mm pitch, black or grey

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** uSD-card adapter with flat cable: 5cm long, 1cm wide, 1mm pitch

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** uSD-card adapter with flat cable: 5cm long, 1cm wide, 1mm pitch, grey

* Screws

** 12 x ISO7380 M2.5x5mm black zinc-plated steel (the smaller ones with round head)

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[[File:build51_display_cable_rpi5.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''1.''' Look for the display ribbon cable in the "Screen and Bits" case. It's 20cm long and 1.6cm wide:

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'''1.''' Look for the display ribbon cable in the "Screen and Bits" case. It's not inside any plastic bag but it's laying in the cardboard box. It's 20cm long and 1.6cm wide, having different terminations on each side. Most probably it will be labeled as "Display cable 200mm", white text over black or orange cable.

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[[File:build51_rpi5_display_cable_plugged_02.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''3.''' Open the RPi5's DSI connector by softly pulling up on both sides of the tiny black/grey tongue at once. It opens only about 2mm. When it's totally open, push the ribbon cable inside, straight down, with the black shiny side at the end of the cable facing out (towards the HDMI printed on the RPi5 board). The ~~copper~~ contacts on the end of the cable that are pushed into the connector should be facing the RPi5 Ethernet ~~jack. '''All flat cables in the V5 kit are reversible, so you use can either end'''~~, while taking care to have the black shiny side facing away from the Ethernet ~~jack~~. When the cable is tightly inserted, close the connector by pushing down on the tongue with 2 fingers, one of each hand. Pay attention to ensure the cable does not move out of the connector. If it's not well inserted or not straight, repeat the operation until it's OK. ~~''Note: There is no blue side shown in the photographs.''~~

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'''3.''' Open the RPi5's DSI connector by softly pulling up on both sides of the tiny black/grey tongue at once. It opens only about 2mm. When it's totally open, push the ribbon cable inside, straight down, with the black shiny side at the end of the cable facing out (towards the HDMI printed on the RPi5 board). The contacts on the end of the cable that are pushed into the connector should be facing the RPi5 Ethernet socket, while taking care to have the black shiny side facing away from the Ethernet socket. When the cable is tightly inserted, close the connector by pushing down on the tongue with 2 fingers, one of each hand. Pay attention to ensure the cable does not move out of the connector. If it's not well inserted or not straight, repeat the operation until it's OK.

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~~Zynthian V5.1 gets~~ a ~~20% extra power from the RPi5 by overclocking the~~ CPU ~~up to~~ 3 GHz~~. For this to work properly,~~ we need to remove the heat generated by ~~the RPi5's~~ components. As we don't want a noisy fan, prone to failure, pushing dust inside our nice case, we are using the aluminum case as a huge heat-sink. This is achieved by the thermal block, a solid aluminum block that closely contacts with the RPi5's chips and serves as a heat-highway to the aluminum case bottom, and from there, to the rest of the aluminum case. When your zynthian V5.1 is working hard, or when external temperature is high enough, you will note the aluminum case getting hot. This is good because it means the thermal block is doing its job of transferring heat from the inside to the aluminum case body, where it's dissipated to the ambient environment.

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The RBPi5 has a fast CPU that runs at 2.3 GHz and we need to remove the heat generated by its components. As we don't want a noisy fan, prone to failure, pushing dust inside our nice case, we are using the aluminum case as a huge heat-sink. This is achieved by the thermal block, a solid aluminum block that closely contacts with the RPi5's chips and serves as a heat-highway to the aluminum case bottom, and from there, to the rest of the aluminum case. When your zynthian V5.1 is working hard, or when external temperature is high enough, you will note the aluminum case getting hot. This is good because it means the thermal block is doing its job of transferring heat from the inside to the aluminum case body, where it's dissipated to the ambient environment.

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Having understood all this, you may realize '''this is a key step for getting your V5.1 working at 100%''' of its capacity, so don't be in a hurry and take your time to do a good job. Let's start!

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Zynthian V5.1 could get a 20% extra power from the RPi5 by overclocking the CPU up to 3 GHz. By default overclocking is disabled because not all RPi5 boards support overclocking, but you can try, and luckily, you will get an extra power boost. Obviously, installing correctly the thermal block will increase the chance of overclocking successfully your zynthian.

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Having understood all this, you may realize '''this is a key step for getting your V5.1 working at 100% (or more!)''' of its capacity, so don't be in a hurry and take your time to do a good job. Let's start!

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[[File:build51_mainboard_rpi5.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''5.''' Plug the RBPi5 (with the thermal block attached) on the Main Board's RBPi socket, the big one with 2 rows of 20 pin-holes each. Pay attention to not bend any pins. Also note ~~that~~ the display flat cable should ~~pass through~~ the ~~rectangular hole in the main board~~, as seen in the photos (zoom in if you have doubts).

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'''5.''' Plug the RBPi5 (with the thermal block attached) on the Main Board's RBPi socket, the big one with 2 rows of 20 pin-holes each. Pay attention to not bend any pins. Also note how the display flat cable should go out from the RPi5, as seen in the photos (zoom in if you have doubts).

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[[File:IMG_4270_fixed_wiki.JPG|600px|right]]

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'''1.''' Look for the SD-card adapter in the wiring bag.

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'''1.''' Look for the SD-card adapter in the wiring bag.

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[[File:build51_sdcard_adapter_02.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''3.''' Insert the SD-card adapter's ribbon cable. It must be inserted straight, '''with the ~~blue~~ side facing ~~down~~'''.

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'''3.''' Insert the SD-card adapter's ribbon cable. It must be inserted straight, '''with the metal contacts side facing up'''.

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[[File:build51_sdcard_adapter_04.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''5.''' Plug the SD-card adapter into the RPI5's SD-card holder. The connector is rotated 90º respect to the cable, so you must softly bend the ribbon cable to get it plugged-in. Check the pictures and proceed slowly, always using the minimum amount of force.

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'''5.''' Plug the SD-card adapter into the RPI5's SD-card holder. The connector is rotated 90º respect to the cable, so you must softly bend the ribbon cable to get it plugged-in. Check the pictures and proceed slowly, always using the minimum amount of force. Don't force the cable, bend it softly, please.

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'''THIS IS A CRITICAL STEP''' to get the main board SD-card slot working right. Extreme your care because the SD-card adapter's cable is delicate and easy to damage, specially the join between the flat cable and the SD-card plug.

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[[File:IMG_4294_fixed_wiki.JPG|600px|right]]

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'''3.''' Insert the USB-C adapter's ribbon cable. It must be inserted straight, '''with the ~~blue~~ side facing ~~down~~'''.

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'''3.''' Insert the USB-C adapter's ribbon cable. It must be inserted straight, '''with the metal contacts side facing up'''.

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[[File:capture000142_fixed_wiki.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''1.''' Look for the control flat ribbon cable in the wiring bag. It's ~~grey with blue tips,~~ 15cm long and 1cm wide.

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'''1.''' Look for the control flat ribbon cable in the wiring bag. It's 15cm long and 1cm wide. Contacts are crossed, with one side faced up and the other side faced down. Be warned that your cable color could be different than those shown in the pictures. It could be '''grey with blue tips''' or '''black with black tips'''. If it's black, do not confuse this cable with display cable!

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{{NoteBox| Please, note that the white JST connector shown on the pictures at left may not be soldered in you control board. Don't worry about it as it's not need it for normal operation. }}

[[File:capture000086_fixed_wiki.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''3.''' Insert the ribbon cable into the FPC connector. It must be inserted straight, with the ~~blue~~ side facing ~~down~~. '''~~All flat cables in the V5 kit are~~ reversible, so you can take any of the 2 caps''', while '''taking care of placing the ~~blue~~ side facing ~~down~~'''.

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'''3.''' Insert the ribbon cable into the FPC connector. It must be inserted straight, with the metal contacts side facing up. '''This cable is reversible, so you can take any of the 2 caps''', while '''taking care of placing the metal contacts side facing up'''.

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[[File:build51_join_parts_control_04.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''2.''' Using two fingers, one on each hand, softly pull the main board's control-1 connector tongue until it's open. Insert the flat ribbon cable coming from the control board (top part). Do it straight, without bending or twisting it in any way, so '''the ~~blue~~ side is ~~face down~~'''.

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'''2.''' Using two fingers, one on each hand, softly pull the main board's control-1 connector tongue until it's open. Insert the flat ribbon cable coming from the control board (top part). Do it straight, without bending or twisting it in any way, so '''the metal contacts side is facing up'''.

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[[File:capture000125_fixed_wiki.jpg|600px|right]]

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'''5.''' If everything worked fine and your zynthian is alive, please, finish the task before start exploring your new zynthian V5.1. Take the remaining 6 x ISO7380 M3 screws and secure the case, 3 on each side. Tighten enough, but not too much.

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'''5.''' If everything worked fine and your zynthian is alive, please, finish the task before start exploring your new zynthian V5.1. Take the remaining 6 x ISO7380 M3 screws and secure the case, 3 on each side. You should place all the 6 screws before tightening any of them. Tighten enough, but not too much.

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'''6.''' '''Congratulations!''' Your Zynthian V5.1 is ready to boot for the first (or second??) time. '''If you didn't yet''', it's time to '''[[Zynthian Software|burn a SD-card with the latest zynthian software image]]'''. Please, use a good quality SD-card and follow the [[Zynthian Software|instructions]] carefully.

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[[File:capture000158_fixed_1024.jpg|600px|right]]

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Note that the wiring kit should include a little tool to help inserting/removing the SD-card. It's a small rectangular piece of black-anodized aluminum with the zynthian logo, like shown in the picture:

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='''First Boot'''=

First boot could take some time. Don't be impatient and wait until you see the splash screen with the logo. If the display remains black after 1 minute, please, re-check the [[Zynthian Software|instructions]] and re-burn the SD-card again. If this still don't work, try with a different SD-card before reporting in the [https://discourse.zynthian.org forum]. For solving SD-card issues, it could be useful to [https://raspberrytips.com/green-and-red-light-on-raspberry-pi check the RPi5 status LEDs].

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'''It's time to remove the display's protective sheet (''please, do it!!'') and take a look to the [[Zynthian_UI_User%27s_Guide_-_Oram | user's guide]]!'''

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[[File:~~capture000158_fixed_1024~~.jpg|~~600px~~|right]]

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If the first boot did not finish right and you did not get into the zynthian user interface, you should carefully re-check the wiring before trying again:

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* '''If the display remains black''', you should check the display cable connection.

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* '''If you get the ERROR screen''', most probably your control board is not being detected and you should check the control-1 cable connection.

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You should check both sides of connection. Check that orientation is correct, the cable is well inserted and the connector totally closed. If it still doesn't work, you could look for damaged cable contacts, solder bridges on the PCB connectors, etc.

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{{WarningBox|AFTER A FAILED FIRST BOOT, YOU SHOULD NOT BOOT AGAIN WITH THE SAME SD-CARD AS IT IS.}}

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If hardware can't be detected, the SD-card is configured as "custom hardware" and first boot is disabled. You must re-burn the SD-card or reset the SD-card from the terminal with this command:

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set_first_boot.sh

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You can reach the terminal from webconf or using SSH.

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From the terminal, you can check the first boot log with this command:

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cat /root/first_boot.log

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This could help you to understand what is going wrong. You should include this log when asking for help in the forum.

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Also, when reporting first boot issues, it could be very helpful to include the output of this command:

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i2cdetect -y 1

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When everything is OK you should get something like this:

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f

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00: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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10: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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20: 20 21 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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30: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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40: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- UU -- -- UU -- --

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50: -- -- UU -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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60: UU -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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70: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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If things are not working OK, you could get something like this, for instance

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0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f

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00: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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10: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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20: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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30: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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40: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 4a -- -- 4d -- --

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50: -- -- 62 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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60: 60 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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70: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

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Note the absence of the chips addressed in 20 & 21 (2 x MCP23017). This means your control board is not being detected and most probably is not well connected.

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='''V5 KITS SOLD BEFORE 2025-06-01 - Fixing FFC connectors'''=

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Recently we have detected a little defect (thanks @simmeah!) that could be the cause of some rare issues reported from time to time. We never experienced these issues in any of the builds we realized in zynthian labs and this is the reason we haven't detected the problem until now.

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{{WarningBox|All kits sold after 2025-06-01 are fixed and free from this defect.}}

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'''The symptoms'''

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* Control board connection issues, like:

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** Control board not being detected on first boot (see [[Assembling_Zynthian_Kit_V5.1#First_Boot | section 6]]).

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** Some buttons or knobs behave erratically or don't work.

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* SD-card extender doesn't work or it's not stable enough.

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'''and:'''

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* '''YOU HAVE DOUBLE CHECKED''' the build tutorial and you are sure you followed the instructions carefully and everything is according to them.

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* You are using '''good quality SD-cards of the right sizes (32 or 64GB)'''. Also, check the SD-card extender is not broken nor damaged.

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{{NoteBox|'''This should be a last-resource action''' before considering to replace the board.}}

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'''The defect'''

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[[File:FPC-issue-bent-cable.jpeg|800px|right]]

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The FFC connectors soldered on main and control boards doesn't fit perfectly the standard ribbon cables we include in the V5 kit, causing the cable to bent when closing the latch and potentially causing bad contact or, at worst case, damaging the flat cable.

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The reason is we accidentally choose a wrong part number and didn't realize until now because the difference is really small and it works most of times. Indeed I never suffered the issue in any build I did here, in zynthian labs, and I did a few!

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We have already fixed the BOMs so next boards will be manufactured with the right part number. Also, we are fixing all boards we have stocked so:

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{{NoteBox|'''ALL V5 KITS SOLD AFTER 2025-06-01 ARE FREE FROM THIS DEFECT''' and you don't need to fix this because we already did. If you have issues, the cause is not this.}}

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'''The fix'''

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[[File:FPC-issue_plastic_bumps_redcircles.jpg|800px|right]]

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Anyway i would like to offer a solution for those having issues with this. Indeed, the solution is simple and it has been already explained by @simmeah in the forum:

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'''Use a cutter or scalpel to cut the 2 tiny plastic bumps that cause the issue.'''

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The bumps are really tiny and you probably need good eyes or magnifying glasses. The tool must be well sharpened, so the plastic bumps can be cut will minimal force. Be extremely careful to not worsen things by breaking the FFC's latch.

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You must repeat the operation for all FFC connectors used by V5. They are:

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[[File:V5.1_main_fpc_issue_01.jpg|800px|right]]

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* '''Main Board'''

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** CONTROL-1

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** USB-C1

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** SDCARD-RBPi1

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~~<div style="clear: both"></div>~~

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[[File:V5.1_control_fpc_issue_01.jpg|800px|right]]

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~~<div style="float~~:right~~;">~~

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* '''Control Board'''

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~~Tool to help insert/remove SDcard~~

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** CONTROL-1

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~~</div>~~

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May the force be with you and remember: '''better asking than crying!!'''

Jofemodo

Bureaucrats, Interface administrators, Suppressors, Administrators

3,509

edits

Changes

Assembling Zynthian Kit V5.1 (view source)

Revision as of 23:20, 5 June 2025