Difference between revisions of "Building a Zynthian Box using an official Kit v2"

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(Created page with " =Introduction= This tutorial is mainly intended for those who are building a Zynthian Box using one of the ''official'' kits, that i offer here: [https://discourse.zynthia...")
 
 
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This tutorial is mainly intended for those who are building a Zynthian Box using one of the ''official'' kits, that i offer here:
 
This tutorial is mainly intended for those who are building a Zynthian Box using one of the ''official'' kits, that i offer here:
  
  [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/zynthian-kits/150/17 Getting a Zynthian Kit]
+
  [http://shop.zynthian.org Zynthian Shop]
  
Specifically, the instructions are for the assembly of kits v2 (version 2), those using the All-In-One circuit and the PiScreen display. If you have a older kit v1, based in the 2in1 circuit and the PiTFT 2.8" display, you better should read [[Building a Zynthian Box using an official Kit v2|this tutorial]].
+
Specifically, the instructions are for the assembly of kits v2 (version 2), those using the All-In-One circuit and the PiScreen 3.5' display. If you have an older kit v1, based in the 2in1 circuit and the PiTFT 2.8' display, you better should read [[Building a Zynthian Box using an official Kit | this tutorial]].
  
[[File:Zynthian_finished_02.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_2287.JPG|600px]]
  
Anyway, it's quite detailed and can be used as a guide to build a custom Zynthian Box from scratch. Of course, you will have to be creative if you want to do it in that way ;-)
+
Anyway, the instructions are quite detailed and can be used as inspiration for building a custom Zynthian Box from scratch. Of course, you will have to be creative if you want to do it in such a way ;-)
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_2280.JPG|600px]]
  
 
=Bill of Materials=
 
=Bill of Materials=
* Zynthian Basic Kit (custom PCBs, electronic parts, wiring and knobs) See: [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/zynthian-kits/150/17 Getting a Zynthian Kit]
+
* Zynthian Basic Kit (custom PCBs, electronic parts, wiring and knobs) Visit the [http://shop.zynthian.org Zynthian Shop]
* Case kit, with nuts, bolts and case connectors. See: [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/zynthian-kits/150/17 Getting a Zynthian Kit]
+
* Case kit, including nuts, bolts and connectors. Visit the [http://shop.zynthian.org Zynthian Shop]
 
* Raspberry Pi 3 (or Raspberry Pi 2)
 
* Raspberry Pi 3 (or Raspberry Pi 2)
* HifiBerry DAC+ https://www.adafruit.com/product/2901
+
* [https://www.hifiberry.com/products/dacplus HifiBerry DAC+ souncard]
* TouchScreen LCD display PiTFT 2.8"
+
* [http://ozzmaker.com/product/piscreen-3-5-tft-with-touch-for-the-raspberry-pi OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5" touch-display]
** https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298 Resistive touchscreen (less expensive)
+
* Power adapter for Raspberry Pi (5.1v 2.4A with microUSB connector)
** https://www.adafruit.com/product/2423 Capacitive touchscreen (better touch response)
+
* 16GB SD Card (a good one, please!)
* Power adapter for Raspberry Pi (5.1v 2.4A with microUSB connector) https://www.adafruit.com/product/1995
 
  
 
=Some definitions=
 
=Some definitions=
Line 32: Line 33:
 
The Zynthian Software stack consist of:
 
The Zynthian Software stack consist of:
  
  + '''GNU Linux Operating System:''' Raspbian Jessie (Minibian is used in the last SD images)
+
  + '''GNU Linux Operating System:''' Raspbian Jessie (Minibian is used in the most recent SD images)
 
  + '''Jack Audio Daemon'''
 
  + '''Jack Audio Daemon'''
 
  + '''MOD-HOST + MOD-UI''' software, from [http://moddevices.com ModDevices] ([https://github.com/moddevices github repositories])
 
  + '''MOD-HOST + MOD-UI''' software, from [http://moddevices.com ModDevices] ([https://github.com/moddevices github repositories])
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The easiest way of getting the software is downloading the last ''official'' SD image from here:
 
The easiest way of getting the software is downloading the last ''official'' SD image from here:
  
  '''[http://blog.zynthian.org/download/zynthian_gorgona_edge_rbpi3_pitft-2017-09-18.img.torrent Download Zynthian "Gorgona Edge" SD-image]'''
+
  '''[https://os.zynthian.org/zynthianos-last-stable.zip Download Last Stable ZynthianOS SD-image]'''
  
It's a 9GB image file (a good amount of soundfonts) compiled for RBPi3.
+
It's a 8 GB compressed image file (plenty of soundfonts) compiled for Raspberry Pi 3.
  
If you prefer a smaller image (Gorgonilla) or need support for RBPi2, then you can download the older Gorgona image:
+
These SD card images include all the Zynthian software, properly configured for working with the official kits. Completely ready to use. Plug and play!
  
'''[https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/merry-zynthians-and-happy-new-sd-image/314 Download Zynthian "Gorgona" SD-image]'''
+
After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to a micro-SD card. You need '''a micro-SD card with a minimum size of 16 GB''', although you can use a bigger one if you want.
  
These SD images include all the Zynthian software, properly configured for the standard hardware -- ready to use. Plug and play! ;-)
+
If you don't know how to do it, you can use [https://etcher.io/ Etcher] (free software works on Mac, Windows or Linux) to flash the image onto the micro-SD card. Or do it manually! There is a really good manual for this at [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ this link].
  
After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to a SDcard. You need a minimum size of 16GB SDcard for the full ''Gorgona'' image or 8GB for the ''Gorgonilla'' lite image.
+
Finally, if you like, you can build your own SD image following these instructions:
 
 
Use Etcher https://etcher.io/ (free software works on Mac, Windows or Linux) to flash the image onto the SDcard.
 
 
 
Or do it manually: There is a really good manual for this at [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ this link].
 
 
 
If you prefer, you can build your own SD image following these instructions:
 
  
 
  [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/new-sd-image-setup-script/283 Building the SD Image using the Setup Script]
 
  [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/new-sd-image-setup-script/283 Building the SD Image using the Setup Script]
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This is a sketch with the main blocks of the ''official'' Zynthian Box:
 
This is a sketch with the main blocks of the ''official'' Zynthian Box:
  
[[File:Zynthian_hardware_scheme.png|600px]]
+
[[File:Zynthian_hardware_scheme.png|800px]]
  
 
In the project's repositories you will find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Herber files, etc. to build your own Zynthian Box from scratch:
 
In the project's repositories you will find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Herber files, etc. to build your own Zynthian Box from scratch:
Line 81: Line 76:
 
===Zynthian Kit===
 
===Zynthian Kit===
  
A Zynthian Kit is a set of specific and generic electronic modules designed or picked for building a Zynthian Box. This tutorial refers to the ''official'' Zynthian Kit, that is composed of these specific parts:
+
A Zynthian Kit is a set of specific and generic electronic modules designed or picked for building a Zynthian Box. This tutorial refers to the ''official'' Zynthian Kit v2, that is composed of these specific parts:
  
 
  + '''4 x Controller Modules''' (rotary encoder + switch)
 
  + '''4 x Controller Modules''' (rotary encoder + switch)
  + '''1 x 2in1 Module''' (GPIO expander + MIDI IN)
+
  + '''1 x All-In-One Module''' (GPIO expander + MIDI IN/OUT/THRU)
 
  + '''1 x Main ribbon bus cable'''
 
  + '''1 x Main ribbon bus cable'''
  + '''Set of Dupont color-wire connectors'''
+
  + '''Wiring Kit with JST connectors'''
  
[[File:Zynthian_kit_assembled.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1286.JPG|600px]]
  
 
and these generic parts:
 
and these generic parts:
Line 94: Line 89:
 
  + '''1 x Raspberry Pi 2/3'''
 
  + '''1 x Raspberry Pi 2/3'''
 
  + '''1 x Hifiberry DAC+''' (also pro & lite)
 
  + '''1 x Hifiberry DAC+''' (also pro & lite)
  + '''1 x Adafruit PiTFT 2.8' ScreenTouch (or clonic)'''
+
  + '''1 x PiScreen 3.5' Touch-Display'''
  
Of course, other arrangements and combinations are possible and some community members are working on them:
+
[[File:IMG_1299.JPG|600px]]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Of course, other arrangements and combinations are possible. You can easily configure your hardware using the [http://wiki.zynthian.org/index.php/Configuration_Users_Guide Webconf Tool], or if it doesn't work, tweaking from the [http://wiki.zynthian.org/index.php/Command_Line_User_Guide command line].
 +
 
 +
You can take a look to some of the alternate builds made by some community members:
  
 
  - [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/a-build-with-variations/324 A build with variations, by vagnscott]
 
  - [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/a-build-with-variations/324 A build with variations, by vagnscott]
 
  - [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/another-wiring/333 Another Wiring, by Imager]
 
  - [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/another-wiring/333 Another Wiring, by Imager]
 +
- [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/success-cases/41 Success Cases]
  
 
===Zynthian Case===
 
===Zynthian Case===
  
It's the enclosure used to put on all the parts. Again, this tutorial refers to the ''official'' Zynthian Aluminum Case, that is designed to be used in conjunction with the ''official'' Kit.  
+
It's the enclosure used to put on all the parts. Again, this tutorial refers to the ''official'' Zynthian Aluminum Case v2, that is designed to be used in conjunction with the ''official'' Kit v2.  
  
 
This case is available as a kit, including all the needed connectors, knobs, bolts & nuts:
 
This case is available as a kit, including all the needed connectors, knobs, bolts & nuts:
  
[[File:Zynthian_aluminum_case_kit.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_4752.JPG|600px]]
  
 
If you intend to use a different soundcard or display, probably it won't fit the case and you will have to modify it. Of course, you can build your own customized case. Here you can find some examples from the community:
 
If you intend to use a different soundcard or display, probably it won't fit the case and you will have to modify it. Of course, you can build your own customized case. Here you can find some examples from the community:
Line 155: Line 156:
 
'''2.''' Before soldering, please, check that you are soldering in the right side of PCB, also that components orientation is correct (ICs, diode)
 
'''2.''' Before soldering, please, check that you are soldering in the right side of PCB, also that components orientation is correct (ICs, diode)
  
'''3.''' When soldering, always avoid overheating. Electronic components doesn't like overheat! This is specially important when soldering the big connectors in the HifiBerry soundcard and the PiTFT touchscreen. If you overheat the circuit, probably you will break some electronic component and you will end with a dead board. I recommend  to use a fan while soldering. If not, you can use your mouth ;-) Also, don't solder the contacts in order. It's better to jump from one to another in the oposite corner. If you are not sure of your soldering skills, please, take your time and do some practice with inexpensive components and prototyping board.
+
'''3.''' When soldering, always avoid overheating. Electronic components doesn't like overheat! This is specially important when soldering the big connector in the HifiBerry soundcard. If you overheat the circuit, probably you will break some electronic component and you will end with a dead board. I recommend  to use a fan while soldering. If not, you can use your mouth ;-) Also, don't solder the contacts in order. It's better to jump from one to another in the oposite corner. If you are not sure of your soldering skills, please, take your time and do some practice with inexpensive components and prototyping board.
  
 
'''4.''' After finishig the soldering, brush smoothly all the contacts. You may use a small iron brush. After that, blow over the circuit to remove any remaining tin.
 
'''4.''' After finishig the soldering, brush smoothly all the contacts. You may use a small iron brush. After that, blow over the circuit to remove any remaining tin.
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  + 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1)
 
  + 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1)
 
  + 8 x ceramic capacitor 10nF (c2, c3)
 
  + 8 x ceramic capacitor 10nF (c2, c3)
  + 4 x 4-pin-row male connector (angle)
+
  + 4 x 4-pin JST male-angle connector  
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_4728.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:4xcontroller_single_kit.jpg|600px]]
+
This components are used to build the 4 controller modules that form the input side of the physical ''Zynthian User Interface''. Each controller embed an incremental rotary encoder and a switch, so 4 wires (A,B,SW,GND) are needed for connecting it.
  
This components are used to build the 4 controller modules that form the input side of the physical ''Zynthian User Interface''. Each controller embed an incremental rotary encoder and a switch, so 4 wires are needed for connecting it with the RBPi GPIO.
+
[[File:IMG_4731.JPG|600px]]
  
 
These are the steps for building one module:
 
These are the steps for building one module:
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  0. Be sure that you have read and understdood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
 
  0. Be sure that you have read and understdood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
 
  1. Bend the encoder's securing tabs to 75º, so you can insert it in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Please, be very careful when bending the tabs as the encoder case is quite fragil and could be deformed. I recommend to use a small plier and not reaching to 90º.
 
  1. Bend the encoder's securing tabs to 75º, so you can insert it in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Please, be very careful when bending the tabs as the encoder case is quite fragil and could be deformed. I recommend to use a small plier and not reaching to 90º.
  2. Place the 100nF capacitor in C1 position (the most right!). This is for debouncing the push switch.
+
  2. Place the 100nF capacitor in C1 position (the most right!). This is for debouncing the push switch (SW).
  3. Place the 2 x 10nF capacitors in C2 & C3 positions. These are for debouncing the rotary encoder contacts.
+
  3. Place the 2 x 10nF capacitors in C2 & C3 positions. These are for debouncing the rotary encoder contacts (A,B).
 
  3. Solder the encoder and capacitors carefully.
 
  3. Solder the encoder and capacitors carefully.
  4. Place the pin-row connector in the downside of the PCB, with the angle pins facing inwards (look the photo!)
+
  4. Place the JST connector in the downside of the PCB, with the angle pins facing inwards (look the photo!)
  5. Solder the pin-row carefully.
+
  5. Solder the JST connector carefully.
6. Bend the pin-row outwards a little bit, like shown in the photo. You can use a screw-driver or similar to do it.  
+
  7. Use the plier to close the encoder's tabs again, trying to "catch" the PCB.
  7. Use the plier to close the tabs again, trying to "catch" the PCB.
 
  
[[File:Controller_single_ensambled_top.jpg|290px]]
+
[[File:IMG_4781.JPG|600px]]
[[File:Controller_single_ensambled_01.jpg|400px]]
 
  
 
You have to build 4 controller modules, so you to have to repeat the steps 4 times.
 
You have to build 4 controller modules, so you to have to repeat the steps 4 times.
  
===Assembling the 2in1 Module===
+
===Assembling the All-In-One Module===
  
The 2in1 module kit is composed of:
+
The All-In-One module kit is composed of:
  
  + 1 x 2in1 PCB
+
  + 1 x All-In-One PCB
  + 1 x opto-coupler 6N138 => 8 pins IC
+
  + 1 x GPIO-expander MCP23017 => 28-pin IC
  + 1 x dioode 1N4148 (D1)
+
+ 3 x opto-coupler H11L1 (OC1,OC2,OC3) => 6-pin IC
  + 1 x resistor 1K (R1) => brown-black-red (*)
+
  + 3 x diode 1N4148 (D1,D3,D4)
  + 1 x resistor 10K (R2) => brown-black-orange (*)
+
  + 1 x diode 1N5819 (D2)
  + 1 x resistor 220 (R3) => red-red-brown (*)
+
+ 3 x resistor 1K (R3,R4,R9) => brown-black-red (*)
  + 1 x MCP23008 => 18 pins IC
+
  + 1 x resistor 10K (R10) => brown-black-orange (*)
  + 2 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1, C2)
+
  + 1 x resistor 100 (R1) => brown-black-brown (*)
  + 1 x 8-row-pin male connector (angle)
+
  + 2 x resistor 4K7 (R5,R7) => yellow-purple-red (*)
  + 1 x 6-row-pin male connector
+
+ 3 x resistor 470 (R2,R6,R8) => yellow-purple-brown (*)
+ 1 x 2-row-pin male connector
+
  + 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1,C2,C3,C4)
 +
  + 7 x 4-pin JST male connector
 +
  + 1 x 40-pin-double-row male connector
  
 
(*) Read from left to right with the tolerance ring (gold or silver) on the right.
 
(*) Read from left to right with the tolerance ring (gold or silver) on the right.
  
[[File:2in1_kit.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_4726.JPG|800px]]
 +
 
  
These are the steps for building the 2in1 module:
+
These are the steps for building the All-In-One module:
  
 
  0. Be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
 
  0. Be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
  1. Place all the components in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Put attention to the orientation of the ICs and diode.
+
  1. Place the passive components (resistors & capacitors) in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!).
 
  2. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating!
 
  2. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating!
 +
3. Place the ICs and diodes in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Put attention to the orientation of these components!!
 +
4. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! (*)
 +
5. Place the connectors in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!).
 +
6. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! (*)
  
[[File:2in1_ensambled.jpg|600px]]
+
(*) You could use some tape for fixing the components while soldering, specially for ICs and connectors.
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_1251.JPG|800px]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_1252.JPG|800px]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_1277.JPG|800px]]
  
 
===Tweaking the HifiBerry DAC+ soundcard===
 
===Tweaking the HifiBerry DAC+ soundcard===
Line 234: Line 248:
 
'''WARNING!''' Soldering the big 40-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
 
'''WARNING!''' Soldering the big 40-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
  
[[File:Hifiberry_dacplus_extra_connectors_unassembled.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1369.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:Hifiberry_dacplus_extra_connectors_mounted.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1370.JPG|600px]]
  
===Tweaking the PiTFT 2.8' TouchScreen===
+
===Tweaking the OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5' touch-display===
  
If you are using the Adafruit PiTFT 2.8' TouchScreen (or a clonic version) in a standard mounting (standard main ribbon bus and case size), is highly recommended to use the side 26-pin male connector, not the bottom female connector. The main ribbon bus is designed to use the side 26-pin male connector, and the case mounting will be easier if you do so.
+
The standard OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5 'touch-display have 2 connectors: a female connector ready for connecting the display as a hat and a male connector placed in the side. The official aluminum case and the ribbon cable are designed for the side male connector. The female connector can be annoying and should be removed for better closing the case.
  
====Original Adafruit TouchScreen====
+
If you got your PiScreen from a "Bundle-All" kit, you probably don't have this annoying female connector, so you are lucky and don't need to do anything here. If you have it, then take the saw and remove the connector carefully.
  
If you have an original Adafruit PiTFT 2.8' TouchScreen, probably you have both connectors soldered in the board, so you don't need to solder anything. Anyway, the bottom female connector is quite annoying when trying to close the case, so perhaps you want to remove it using a saw. If you do so, i also recommend to use a vice.
+
===Other Soundcards and Displays===
  
====Clonic TouchScreen====
+
If you are using a different soundcard or display, you'll have to see the best way to integrate it. If you do so, please, don't forget to give good feedbak in the forum or here, in the wiki.
  
If you have a clonic PiTFT 2.8' touchscreen, probably you don't have the side 26-pin male connector soldered on the board, so you should solder it by your own. Also, normally the female connector in the clonic versions is higher that in the original and more annoying yet, so, you will want to remove it with a saw. If you do so, i also recommend to use a vice.
+
In the forum you can see what other users have done, and of course, don't doubt to ask whatever you want!
  
After removing the female connector, the side connector must be soldered. Note that you have to place it on the bottom side of the board, so you should solder the contacts on the top side.
+
https://discourse.zynthian.org/c/building-zynthian
  
'''WARNING!''' Soldering the 26-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood [[#Some_general_recommendations|these recommendations]].
+
===Building the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors===
  
[[File:Pitft_clonic_touchscreen_unassambled.jpg|600px]]
+
Before mounting the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires that allow connecting it to the All-In-One circuit using a JST connector. Doing it in that way is rather more comfortable than trying to solder inside the case with all the wiring mess.
  
[[File:Clonic_pitft_tweaked_connectors.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_4777.JPG|600px]]
  
Frequently, clonic PiTFT touchscreens have 4 switches welded on it. These switches can be annoying when holding the display to the case. If the switches remain pressed after mounting, then it will cause problems as are connected to the GPIO and will conflict with the controller modules. The switches are easily pulled out by slighty turning each switch parallely to the board with a plier.
+
'''JST Connector wires'''[[File:Midiconnfront.jpg|340px|right]]
  
[[File:Pitft_clonic_touchscreen_switches.jpg|600px]]
+
* JST White (1) => LED's Anode (LED's red wire/long lead)
 +
* JST Yellow (2) => LED's Cathode (LED's black wire/short lead)
 +
* JST Black (3) => pin 5 of MIDI connector
 +
* JST Red (4) => pin 4 of MIDI connector
  
[[File:Pitft_clonic_touchscreen_switches_removed.jpg|600px]]
+
If you want (i strongly recommend you do it!), you can protect the contacts using heat-shrink sleeve (the red sleeve pieces in the photo). In that case, remember to insert the sleeve pieces before soldering ;-)
  
===Other Soundcards and Displays===
+
[[File:IMG_1276.JPG|600px]]
  
If you are using a different soundcard or display, you'll have to see the best way to integrate it. If you do so, please, don't forget to give good feedbak in the forum or here, in the wiki.
 
  
In the forum you can see what other users have done, and of course, don't doubt to ask whatever you want!
+
Depending of your case version, you will need to build 2 or 3 MIDI connectors.
 
 
https://discourse.zynthian.org/c/building-zynthian
 
 
 
===Building the MIDI-IN connector===
 
 
 
Before mounting the MIDI-IN connector into the case we will solder the needed wires. Doing it in that way is rather more comfortable than trying to solder inside the case with all the wiring mess.
 
 
 
If you want, you can protect the contacts using heat-shrink sleeve (the red sleeve pieces in the photo). In that case, remember to insert the sleeve pieces before soldering ;-)
 
 
 
[[File:Midi_connector_unasambled.jpg|600px]]
 
 
 
[[File:Midi_connector_assembled.jpg|600px]]
 
  
 
===Building the JACK Audio-Out connectors===
 
===Building the JACK Audio-Out connectors===
Line 286: Line 290:
 
In the same way, before mounting the Jack connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires. You can use heat-shrink sleeve too.
 
In the same way, before mounting the Jack connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires. You can use heat-shrink sleeve too.
  
[[File:Jack_connectors_unassambled.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_4774.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:Jack_connectors_assembled_new.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1272.JPG|600px]]
  
 
=Case Mounting=
 
=Case Mounting=
Line 296: Line 300:
 
The main computing block is composed by the RBPi and the HifiBerry soundcard, and shouold be assembled using the next set of separator & bolts:
 
The main computing block is composed by the RBPi and the HifiBerry soundcard, and shouold be assembled using the next set of separator & bolts:
  
[[File:Bolts_main_computing_block.jpg|200px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1293.JPG|400px]]
  
 
For easier assembling, you should follow the next steps:
 
For easier assembling, you should follow the next steps:
Line 304: Line 308:
 
  3. screw the 4 bolts on top of the HifiBerry.
 
  3. screw the 4 bolts on top of the HifiBerry.
  
[[File:Main_computing_block_rbpi.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1353.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:Main_computing_block_02.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1348.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:Main_computing_block.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1351.JPG|600px]]
  
 
===Secure the Main Computing Block===
 
===Secure the Main Computing Block===
Line 314: Line 318:
 
After assembling the main computing block, you should secure it to the case. Use 4 black M2.5 bolts (see photo above).
 
After assembling the main computing block, you should secure it to the case. Use 4 black M2.5 bolts (see photo above).
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_computing_block_01.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1314.JPG|600px]]
  
===Secure the 2in1 module===
+
===Secure the All-In-One module===
  
Secure the 2in1 module to the case using the 2 nylon separators with nuts and the last 2 black M2.5 bolts.
+
Secure the All-In-One module to the case using 4 x separators and 8 x M2.5 bolts.
  
[[File:bolts_2in1.jpg|150px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1294.JPG|400px]]
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_2in1_01.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1356.JPG|600px]]
  
 
===Secure the Jack connectors===
 
===Secure the Jack connectors===
Line 328: Line 332:
 
Put the rings on the outer side of the case to avoid damaging the case surface when you tighten the nuts.
 
Put the rings on the outer side of the case to avoid damaging the case surface when you tighten the nuts.
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_jack_connectors_detail.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1371.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_jack_connectors_top.jpg|600px]]
+
===Secure the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors===
  
===Secure the MIDI-IN connector===
+
Just insert the connector with the JST-wire from the out-side of the case and the nut from the innerside. A pair of pliers can be useful for tighten.
  
The ground connector goes upwards. I recommend to remove it with a plier as it could "touch" the controller row-pins when closing the case.
+
[[File:IMG_1383.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_midi_connector_detail.jpg|600px]]
 
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_midi_connector_top.jpg|600px]]
+
===Mount the MIDI activity LEDS===
  
===Secure the ScreenTouch===
+
Insert the 3 LEDS in the case holes. You may want to push the LEDs with something more rigid than your finger. The screwdriver's handle could be fine.
  
This step is a little bit tricky because the bolts & nuts are tiny, and it have some slack. Don't press too much the nuts. The PCB have to bend a little bit, but not too much. You should be capable of moving the display pushing the borders with your fingers. Later, when the screen is on, you will fine adjust the position for having the margins equalized.
+
[[File:IMG_2223.JPG|600px]]
 +
[[File:IMG_2224.JPG|600px]]
  
'''Note:''' Before fixing the screen, don't forget to remove the protective plastic sheet!
+
When it's done, you have to solder the 2 LED wires (red/black) with the 2 spare wires on the MIDI JST harness (white/yellow). Polarity is important, so don't cross the wires:
  
[[File:bolts_screentouch.jpg|200px]]
+
* JST White wire (1) => LED's Anode (LED's red wire/long lead)
 +
* JST Yellow wire (2) => LED's Cathode (LED's black wire/short lead)
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_display.jpg|600px]]
+
After soldering all the 3 LEDs, you may want to protect the connection with heat shrink sleeve, adhesive tape or hot melt glue.
  
===Secure the Controllers===
+
[[File:IMG_2226.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:zynthian_mounting_controllers.jpg|600px]]
+
===Secure the Display===
  
===Stick the rubber feet===
+
For fixing the display to the case cover, you have to use this set:
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_case_bottom.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1295.JPG|400px]]
  
=Connecting everything=
+
It's composed of 4 bolts, 4 nuts and 4 nylon separators. Before fixing the screen, don't forget to remove the protective plastic sheet.
  
This is an easy connection guide, based in colored wires and images. If you want to know and understand the details (or if you have problems and need to ''debug''), you should take a look to the [[#Technical_Reference|Technical Reference]].
+
[[File:IMG_1387.JPG|600px]]
  
===Connect the Dupont Wires to the Main Ribbon Bus===
+
===Secure the Controllers===
  
====Controller Module 4-pin Dupont Wires (x 4)====
+
Fix the 4 controller modules to the case cover using the 4 bolts and washers attached to every rotary encoder.
  
The next scheme shows the numbering/naming used for encoders and switches:
+
'''IMPORTANT:''' For avoiding problems while closing the case, i recommend to mount the controller modules with the connectors facing one another. See the photo below.
  
[[File:zynthian_ui_legend.png]]
+
[[File:IMG_1393.JPG|600px]]
  
Take the 4 x "20cm 4-pin Dupont Connector Wires". These wires are used to connect the 4 controller modules to the RBPi GPIO:
+
[[File:IMG_1401.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:Controller_dupont_wires.jpg|600px]]
+
===Insert the knobs===
  
You have to connect it to the middle male connector of the Ribbon Bus Cable following the next scheme:
+
You should insert the knobs into the encoders before closing the case. This will avoid forcing the encoders too much as otherwise, you could break them. Follow these simple steps and you wouldn't have any problem:
  
[[File:wiring_scheme_controllers_single.png|600px]]
+
* moisten with water or saliva the encoder stem and the knob hole
 +
* press the encoder PCB with the finger from the rear side while pushing the knob from the front side until is completely inserted
  
You can leave disconnected the two purple wires. It's more comfortable to connect it to the 2in1 module after pluging the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi.
+
===Stick the rubber feet===
  
'''Note:''' While connectig the wires, the red wire of the Main Ribbon Bus must be at left. The red wire is ALWAYS the #1!
+
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_case_bottom.jpg|600px]]
  
====2in1 Module 6-pin Dupont Wire====
+
=Connecting everything=
  
Next, you take the "10cm 6-pin Dupont Connector Wire". This is used to connect the 2in1 module to the RBPi GPIO:
+
The new Zynthian Kit 2 is designed to use JST connectors, so connecting everything is really straight-forward:
  
[[File:2in1_dupont_wire.jpg|600px]]
+
===Connect the Ribbon Bus cable===
  
You have to connect it to the middle male connector of the Ribbon Bus Cable following the next scheme:
+
Connect the Main Ribbon Bus cable to the RBPi's 40-pin header and also to the All-In-One module
  
[[File:Cable-schema-2in1.png|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_4741.JPG|600px]]
  
'''Note:''' While connectig the wires, the red wire of the Main Ribbon Bus must be at left. The red wire is ALWAYS the #1!
+
[[File:IMG_1474.JPG|600px]]
  
In that point you should have something like this:
+
===Connect the controllers (1)===
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_ribbon_wiring.jpg|600px]]
+
Connect the 4 double JST cables to the 4 controller connectors on the All-In-One module (CTRL1, CTRL2, CTRL3, CTRL4)
  
===Connect the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi===
+
[[File:IMG_4744.JPG|600px]]
  
It's time to connect the Main Ribbon Bus to the RBPi GPIO. When looking to the case from the front side, the red wire must be in the right, like in the photo above.
+
[[File:IMG_1479.JPG|600px]]
  
It's also time to connect the two purple wires to the 2in1 module if you haven't done before. This two wires are for the upper switches: CH(1) and LS(3).
+
===Connect the MIDI connectors & activity LEDs===
  
===Connect the Controller Modules (x4)===
+
Connect the 2 JST cables from the MIDI connectors to the MIDI-IN and the MIDI-OUT/THRU connectors on the All-In-One module. Note that currently only 2 connectors are available in the official aluminum case, so you have to choose what do you prefer: MIDI-OUT or MIDI-THRU ;-)
  
This step is a bit tricky. If you followed the instructions above, you have soldered the pin-rows in the bottom side of the controller PCBs, so numbering is reversed when looking from the bottom. You can use a little trick: rotate the PCB 180º and the numbering is "left to right" again ;-)
+
[[File:IMG_1465.JPG|600px]]
  
Anyway, if you take a look to the next photo, you shouldn't have any problem. Brown/green wires are #1.
+
At this point, your Zynthian Box should look something like this:
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_controllers_wiring.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1409.JPG|600px]]
  
'''Note:''' Some encoders have a different pin ordering. If you bought the encoders by yourself, perhaps you have to change A and B pins (brown<=>red, green<=>blue).
+
===Connect the controllers (2)===
  
===Connect the 2in1 Module===
+
Connect the 4 x Controller Modules following the right numbering: from top to bottom and from left to right.
  
Connect the 6-pin dupont wire to the 2in1 module. Numbering is from left to right (top to bottom in the photo) and pin 1 is the brown wire:
+
[[File:zynthian_controllers.png|600px]]
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_2in1_top.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1412.JPG|600px]]
  
Also, if you haven't done this before, connect the DIN-5 connector (MIDI-IN) to the 2in1 module. It's the 2-pin connector labeled as MIDI-IN.
+
===Connect the Audio Jack connectors===
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_2in1_case.jpg|400px]]
+
Connect the Jack connector to the auxiliar audio-out connector on the HifiBerry soundcard. It's the 3-pin JST connector that you soldered before:
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_connectors.jpg|400px]]
 
  
===Connect the Jack connectors===
+
[[File:IMG_1489.JPG|600px]]
  
If you haven't done this before, connect the Jack connectors to the auxiliar on-board audio-out connector in the HifiBerry soundcard. It's the 3-pin connector that you soldered before:
+
{{NoteBox|At this point, if you have a v2+ kit (HifiBerry DAc+ADC soundcard with audio input), you should take a look to the [http://wiki.zynthian.org/index.php/Building_a_Zynthian_Box_using_an_official_Kit_v3#Connect_the_Audio_Jack_connectors v3 kit instructions].}}
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_hifiberry_3pin_connector.jpg|600px]]
+
===Connect the Display===
  
===Connect the ScreenTouch===
+
And finally, connect the ribbon's 26-pin connector to the Display's male side connector. Put attention to the orientation. The red wire should be the pin 1 that as marked in the display's PCB surface.
  
And finally, connect the ribbon's 26-pin connector to the ScreenTouch.
+
[[File:IMG_1501.JPG|600px]]
 
 
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_controllers_wiring.jpg|600px]]
 
  
 
=Testing your Zynthian Box=
 
=Testing your Zynthian Box=
Line 444: Line 447:
  
 
It's easy to make a mistake while assembling the parts or connecting the wires. Some errors can be dangerous for the electronic components (short-circuits, some specific bad-wiring combinations) so it's better to be sure that everything is correctly assembled and connected.
 
It's easy to make a mistake while assembling the parts or connecting the wires. Some errors can be dangerous for the electronic components (short-circuits, some specific bad-wiring combinations) so it's better to be sure that everything is correctly assembled and connected.
 +
 +
Put special attention to ribbon bus connection and verify that red wire is on pin 1 for every connector. Also put attention to audio jack connectors and check that they are correctly connected to the Hifiberry soundcard.
  
 
===First Boot===
 
===First Boot===
  
When you are pretty sure that everything is in its place, it's time to boot by first time, so:
+
When you are sure that everything is in its place, it's time to boot the machine, so:
  
  1. Insert the SD-card with the zynthian image ready to run. If you don't have one yet, [[#Zynthian_Software|read this]].
+
  1. Insert the SD-card with the zynthian image ready to run. If you don't have one yet, [[#Zynthian_Software|read this]]. You can insert the SD-card through the "window" on the bottom-side of the case. Also, if the case is still open, you can do it from the top.
  2. Plug the mini-usb power conector. A good 5V micro-usb charger is recommended (> 1 Amp).
+
  2. Plug the mini-usb power connector. A good 5V micro-usb charger is recommended (> 2 Amp).
  
 
These are the stages that you should see while booting:
 
These are the stages that you should see while booting:
  
  1. Initially, the display must go white
+
  1. After 5-10 seconds, it will show the Zynthian splash screen
2. After 5-10 seconds, it will show the Zynthian splash screen
+
  2. After 3-4 seconds, it will go black
  3. After 1-2 seconds, it will go black
+
  3. If you are using a fresh zynthian image and it's the first boot, the stages 1 and 2 will be repeated
  4. If you are using a fresh zynthian image and it's the first boot, the stages 2 and 3 will be repeated
+
  4. After 5-10 seconds, the zynthian UI will be shown
  5. After 5-10 seconds, the zynthian UI will be shown
 
  
 
If you get the Zynthian UI, congratulations!!! You are really close to get it!!
 
If you get the Zynthian UI, congratulations!!! You are really close to get it!!
  
If not, bad luck! Probably you made some mistake during the mounting process. You have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
+
[[file:IMG_2490.JPG|600px]]
  
===Test the Controllers===
+
If you don't get an error screen or a blank screen, bad luck! Probably you made some mistake during the mounting process. You have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
  
If you get the Zynthian UI, then you should start by testing that your controllers are working OK.  
+
If you are using the Aruk RC-3 SD image (you should!), you are lucky because this SD image is pre-configured for working with the kit v2. If not, perhaps you need to configure the software for working with the kit v2. The simplest way of doing it is using the webconf tool:
  
1. Push the 'SELECT' controller. You should get into the 'Engine Selection' screen.  
+
* Connect your zynthian to your local network using an ethernet cable (RJ-45).
 +
* From your web browser, access the zynthian's webconf tool by typing "zynthian.local" in the address bar. If this doesn't work for you, you should try with the IP. You can get the IP of your zynthian by navigating to the Admin Menu and clicking "Network Info". You should do that by using the "touch" interface: Click the top bar with a stick (or your nail, if it's not too wide) until you are in the Admin Menu. Once you are there, go down and click "Network Info".
 +
* Type the password (''raspberry'') for login into the webconf tool.
 +
* Once you are logged in, you have to access Hardware->Kit and select "Kit V2".
 +
* Save the changes and reboot your Zynthian.
  
If it doesn't works, try pushing the 'LS' controller. Perhaps you have cross-wired the 3 & 4 controllers and in that case, you have to fix the wiring. If it doesn't work, try pushing the other two controllers and rotating the controllers. If something happens, most probably you have reversed the wiring order when connecting the controllers, or perhaps you have changed some wires while connecting the main ribbon bus. Double-check the wiring again.
+
If you are using a really old SD image (you shouldn't!) that is not pre-configure for the Kit v2, then you have to specify every part of your hardware configuration. These are the adjustments you have to set:
  
2. Rotate the 'SELECT' controller to select the engine you want to start.
+
* '''Display:''' PiScreen 3.5 (v2)
 +
* '''Audio:''' HifiBerry DAC+ / HifiBerry DAC+ADC
 +
* '''Wiring:''' MCP23017_EXTRA
 +
* '''Style:''' FontSize = 14
  
The selector must go down when rotating clockwise and go up when rotating counterclockwise. If the rotation sense is reversed, you should check the wiring.
+
===Test the Controllers & UI===
  
3. Push 'BACK'. You should get into the 'Admin' screen. Push 'BACK' again to return to the 'Engine Selection' screen.
+
If you get into the Zynthian UI, then you should be in the 'Layer list' screen. Let's start testing that your controllers are working OK.  
  
  4. Select the ZynAddSubFX engine, select channel #1, bank and instrument. You should get into the 'Instrument Control' screen:
+
  1. Rotate the SELECT controller up & down for selecting the different options in the Layers menu.  
  
'''CAPTURE NEEDED HERE'''
+
2. Push SELECT to create a New 'Synth Layer'. You should get into the 'Engine Selection' screen.
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_2496.JPG|600px]]
 +
 
 +
If it doesn't works, try rotating/pushing the 'learn/snapshot' controller. Perhaps you have cross-wired the 3 & 4 controllers and in that case, you have to fix the wiring. If it doesn't work, try pushing the other two controllers and rotating the controllers. If something happens, most probably you have reversed the wiring order when connecting the controllers. Double-check the wiring again.
 +
 
 +
3. Rotate the SELECT controller to choose the engine you want to instance for the new layer.
 +
 
 +
The selector must go down when rotating clockwise and go up when rotating counter-clockwise. If the rotation sense is reversed, you should check the wiring. Perhaps some harness is faulty. The wires color sequence should be: red, black, yellow, green.
 +
 
 +
4. Select the ZynAddSubFX engine, select channel #1, bank 'Collection' and preset 'Metal Drips'.
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_2497.JPG|600px]]
 +
 
 +
You should get into the 'Instrument Control' screen.
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_2500.JPG|600px]]
  
 
  5. Rotate every control to test that it works and that the rotation sense is correct.  
 
  5. Rotate every control to test that it works and that the rotation sense is correct.  
  
If some controller doesn't work correctly, check the wiring again. You could try to figure what is happening by analizing the observed behaviour.
+
If some controller doesn't work correctly, check the wiring again. You could try to figure what is happening by analyzing the observed behaviour.
 +
 
 +
6. Push SELECT to move to the next controller screen. Bold push to select a controller screen from the list.
 +
 
 +
7. Push BACK. You should go back to the 'Preset Selection' screen.
 +
 
 +
[[File:IMG_2499.JPG|600px]]
 +
 
 +
8. Push BACK again. You should go back to the 'Bank Selection' screen.  
  
6. Push 'LS' to get into the 'Load Snapshot' screen. Push 'LS' again to 'Save Snapshot'. Push 'BACK' to return to the 'Instrument Control' screen.
+
[[File:IMG_2498.JPG|600px]]
  
  7. Push 'CH' to jump to the 'Channel List' screen.
+
  9. Push LAYER again to return to the 'Layer Selection' screen. Try to create another layer following the same procedure.
  
If everything works but 'LS' and 'CH' switches, then probably you have some wiring problem in the 2in1 module. Check the wiring again ;-)
+
[[File:IMG_2509.JPG|600px]]
  
Finally, if you can't fix the problems, you could try to login into the system and run some testing program from the command line:
+
10. Push 'SNAPSHOT' to get into the 'Snapshot' screen. Select 'New Snapshot' and your first snapshot will be stored.
  
# /zynthian/zyncoder/zyncoder_test
+
[[File:IMG_2506.JPG|600px]]
  
or reading directly the GPIO:
+
If everything is working OK, then you should read the [[Zynthian_Users_Guide|User's Guide]] and start enjoying your Zynthian Box, but before that ... why not enjoying a little bit? Connect your MIDI keyboard, your speakers and check this out:
  
  # gpio readall
+
  Bank 'net-wisdom', Preset 'Vangelis Saw - C'
  
etc.
+
Keep pushing a single note (or a chord) and move the cutoff and resonance controllers. Enjoy! ;-)
  
 
===Test the Audio Output===
 
===Test the Audio Output===
  
 
  1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connectors) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
 
  1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connectors) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
  2. Boot your Zynthian. You should be in the initial 'Load Snapshot' screen.
+
  2. Boot your Zynthian. You should be in the initial 'Layer Selection' screen.
  3. Push BACK twice to get into the 'Admin' screen.
+
  3. Push BACK and you will get into the 'Admin' screen.
 
  4. Select 'Audio Test' option and push 'SELECT'. You should hear the test audio-track: a nice afrocuban stuff ;-)
 
  4. Select 'Audio Test' option and push 'SELECT'. You should hear the test audio-track: a nice afrocuban stuff ;-)
  5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing
+
  5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing, and 'BACK' again to return to the "Layer Selection' screen.
  
 
If you hear nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
 
If you hear nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
Line 515: Line 550:
  
 
  1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
 
  1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
  2. Boot your Zynthian, select FluidSynth engine, channel #1 and 'FluidR3 GM' bank.
+
  2. Boot your Zynthian, select FluidSynth engine, channel #1 and 'TimGM6mb' bank. Select some instrument, like "Piano 1".
 +
3. You could add more layers for completing the band ;-)
 
  3. Push BACK, holding the switch pushed more than 2 seconds. You should get into the 'Admin' screen.
 
  3. Push BACK, holding the switch pushed more than 2 seconds. You should get into the 'Admin' screen.
  4. Select 'MIDI Test' option and push 'SELECT'. You should hear the test midi-track: a 'Take Five' version ;-)
+
  4. Select 'MIDI Test' option and push 'SELECT'. You should hear the test midi-track ('Take Five') interpreted by your Zynthian's band ;-)
 
  5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing
 
  5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing
  
Line 527: Line 563:
 
  2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument
 
  2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument
 
  3. Connect a MIDI-USB keyboard to any USB port. The keyboard should be configured to use channel #1.
 
  3. Connect a MIDI-USB keyboard to any USB port. The keyboard should be configured to use channel #1.
  3. After 2-3 seconds , play something with your keyboard. A simple ''Chopin's Nocturni'' would be enough. You should hear your music ;-)
+
  3. After 2-3 seconds , play something with your keyboard. A simple ''Chopin's Nocturni'' would be enough. You should hear your music. If you don't like it, probably you should take some piano lessons, same as me ;-)
  
 
If this doesn't work, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
 
If this doesn't work, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
Line 534: Line 570:
  
 
  1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
 
  1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
  2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument
+
  2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument.
  3. Connect your keyboard's MIDI-OUT to the Zynthian's MIDI-IN using a MIDI cable. The keyboard should be configured to use channel #1.
+
  3. Connect your keyboard's MIDI-OUT to the Zynthian's MIDI-IN using a MIDI cable.
 
  3. After 2-3 seconds, play something with your keyboard. OK! A single melody can do the task. You should hear your song ;-)
 
  3. After 2-3 seconds, play something with your keyboard. OK! A single melody can do the task. You should hear your song ;-)
  
 
If this doesn't work, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
 
If this doesn't work, you have to [[#Locating_and_Solving_problems|locate and solve the problem(s)]].
  
=Close the Case=
+
=Final steps=
 +
 
 +
Once everything is in its place and you have tested that it works, it's time to close the case ...
 +
 
 +
===Close the case===
  
When everything is working OK, it's time to close the case.  
+
Take your time to see how to bend and drive the cables to get a good fitting when closing the case.
  
This can be a little bit tricky. Take your time to see how to bend and drive the cables to get a good fitting.
 
  
[[File:Zynthian_mounting_case_open.jpg|600px]]
+
[[File:IMG_1626.JPG|600px]]
  
[[File:Zynthian_finished_01.jpg|600px]]
 
  
 
Finally, screw-drive the 8 sheet-threader bolts for securing the case, 4 each side.
 
Finally, screw-drive the 8 sheet-threader bolts for securing the case, 4 each side.
 +
 +
 +
[[File:IMG_2287.JPG|600px]]
 +
  
 
=Update your Zynthian Box=
 
=Update your Zynthian Box=
Line 556: Line 598:
 
If you are using the official Zynthian SD Image, the first thing you should do after booting up your Zynthian Box and having the controllers working OK is update the software:
 
If you are using the official Zynthian SD Image, the first thing you should do after booting up your Zynthian Box and having the controllers working OK is update the software:
  
  - connect the Zynthian Box to your router using a RJ45 cable
+
  - connect your Zynthian Box to your router using an ethernet cable
  - '''update zynthian software''' from the admin menu
+
  - from the admin menu, click '''update software'''
  - '''update zynthian library''' from the admin menu
+
  - from the admin menu, click '''restart UI''' (or '''reboot''')
- '''restart GUI''' (or '''reboot''') from the admin menu
 
  
The update process can take some time. Be patient. If you get some ERROR message while updating, please, [[https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/problems-updating-the-software-from-the-admin-menu/386|ask in the forum]]. You can send a photo or description of the error message.
+
The update process can take some time. Be patient. If you get some ERROR message while updating, please, [https://discourse.zynthian.org/t/problems-updating-the-software-from-the-admin-menu/386 ask in the forum]. You can send a photo or description of the error message.
 +
 
 +
You can also update the software using the webconf tool, or from the command line.
  
 
=Locating and Solving problems=
 
=Locating and Solving problems=
Line 567: Line 610:
 
In this section i will try to give you some tips for locating and solving the problems you may have.
 
In this section i will try to give you some tips for locating and solving the problems you may have.
  
For finding and solving problems, i really recommend to connect a HDMI display to the RBPi. It will give you accurate information during the booting sequence. Also, if you connect a USB keyboard, you can login into the system and get extra information, inspect the logs, etc.
+
For finding and solving problems, i really recommend to connect a HDMI display to the RBPi. It will give you accurate information during the booting sequence. Also, if you connect an USB keyboard, you could login into the system and get extra information, inspect the logs, etc.
  
===The display don't go white in the boot stage 1===
+
===The display don't show the zynthian splash screen on boot===
  
I recommend you disconnect the controller and 2in1 modules and try to boot again.
+
In that case, probably the system is not booting correctly. You could try to connect a HDMI display and see if the system is booting. If you can't see the booting sequence, then you should re-burn your SD-card with the Zynthian image. Also, check that your image file is correct by using the SHA1 signature.
If the problem persist it's very probable you haven't solder correctly the side 26-pin connector. You should double check the connector and be sure that it's correctly soldered.
+
 
 +
===You get the zynthian error screen with the IP===
  
===The display don't show the zynthian splash screen in the boot stage 2===
+
Your hardware seems to be incorrectly configured. You should access the webconf tool and configure your hardware.
  
In that case, probably the system is not booting correctly. You could try to connect a HDMI display and see if the system is booting. If you can't see the booting sequence, then you should re-burn your SD-card with the Zynthian image. Also, check that your image file is correct by using the SHA1 signature.
+
===Your controllers doesn't work===
  
'''More coming soon ...'''
+
You make a mistake while connecting the controllers or your hardware (wiring layout) is incorrectly configured. You should access the webconf tool and configure your hardware.
  
 
===You can't solve the problem===
 
===You can't solve the problem===
Line 584: Line 628:
 
If you can't find a solution for your problem, ask the community:
 
If you can't find a solution for your problem, ask the community:
  
  https://discourse.zynthian.com
+
  https://discourse.zynthian.org
  
 
Also, if you found a solution for a problem not described here, please send feedback to the community, or better, edit this wiki! ;-)
 
Also, if you found a solution for a problem not described here, please send feedback to the community, or better, edit this wiki! ;-)
Line 590: Line 634:
 
=Technical Reference=
 
=Technical Reference=
  
Finally, i have included here some detailed schemes and tables. People hacking the standard Zynthian design would find it very useful. Also, if you have some problem and need to "debug", you would find it useful too.
+
Finally, i have included here some detailed schemes. People hacking the standard Zynthian design would find it very useful. Also, if you have some problem and need to "debug", you would find it useful too.
  
 
You can find all this info and much more in the project's [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Hardware Repository].
 
You can find all this info and much more in the project's [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw Hardware Repository].
  
===Electrical Schematic===
+
=== All-In-One Schematic===
  
This is the electrical schematic of a Zynthian Box, excluding the soundcard and display:
+
This is the electrical scheme of the All-In-One circuit:
  
[[File:Zynthian_scheme_GPIO.png|800px]]
+
[[File:Zynthian_allinone.sch.svg|800px]]
  
'''Note:''' The colors indicated in this scheme doesn't match exactly the colors in the schemes above.
+
===RBPi GPIO===
 
 
===Connection Tables===
 
 
 
These are the connection tables for the Zynthian Kit modules. Note that the GPIO no. use the WiringPi numbering, not the RBPi official numbering. This numbering is used by the software too:
 
  
 
[[File:Raspberry-Pi-j8header-2b.png|400px]]
 
[[File:Raspberry-Pi-j8header-2b.png|400px]]
 
'''Controller Module 1'''
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
! Wire no. || Function ||  GPIO no. || Pin on Raspi no.
 
|-
 
| 1 || Enc2-B || 26 || 32
 
|-
 
| 2 || Enc2-A || 21 || 29
 
|-
 
| 3 || Enc2-SW || 07 || GPIO-ext in 2in1
 
|-
 
| 4 || GND || GND || 30
 
|-
 
|}
 
 
'''Controller Module 2'''
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
! Wire no. || Function ||  GPIO no. || Pin on Raspi no.
 
|-
 
| 1 || Enc1-B || 25 || 37
 
|-
 
| 2 || Enc1-A || 27 || 36
 
|-
 
| 3 || Enc1-SW || 23 || 33
 
|-
 
| 4 || GND || GND || 34
 
|-
 
|}
 
 
'''Controller Module 3'''
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
! Wire no. || Function ||  GPIO no. || Pin on Raspi no.
 
|-
 
| 1 || Enc2-B || 00 || 11
 
|-
 
| 2 || Enc2-A || 07 || 7
 
|-
 
| 3 || Enc2-SW || 08 || GPIO-ext in 2in1
 
|-
 
| 4 || GND || GND || 9
 
|-
 
|}
 
 
'''Controller Module 4'''
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
! Wire no. || Function ||  GPIO no. || Pin on Raspi no.
 
|-
 
| 1 || Enc1-B || 04 || 16
 
|-
 
| 2 || Enc1-A || 03 || 15
 
|-
 
| 3 || Enc1-SW || 02 || 13
 
|-
 
| 4 || GND || GND || 14
 
|-
 
|}
 
 
'''2in1 <=> RBPi'''
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
! Wire no. || Function ||  GPIO no. || Pin on Raspi no.
 
|-
 
| 1 || Vdc 3.3V || 3.3V || 1
 
|-
 
| 2 || RxD || RxD || 10
 
|-
 
| 3 || I2C SDA1 || 08 || 3
 
|-
 
| 4 || I2C SCL1 || 09 || 5
 
|-
 
| 5 || Vdc 5V || 5V || 2/4
 
|-
 
| 6 || GND || GND || 6/9
 
|-
 
|}
 
 
'''2in1 <=> MIDI-IN connector'''
 
{| class="wikitable"
 
! Wire no. || Function || MIDI-IN pin no.
 
|-
 
| 1 || MIDI-IN || 2 (MIDI connector: 2nd from left)
 
|-
 
| 2 || MIDI-IN || 4 (MIDI connector: 2nd from right)
 
|-
 
|}
 
EDIT from music.friend: I think that actually the 2nd from left pin
 
of the MIDI IN socket carries the pin number 5. Pint 2 of the MIDI IN
 
socket is used for MIDI OUT and MIDI THHRU for shielding (Connection to GND),
 
while the MIDI IN socket has no direct connection to the receiver, otherwise
 
the Optocoupler does not really make sense.
 
NOTE: This is my first WIKI edit - please forgive me if i have misssed to
 
follow existing style or other rules.
 

Latest revision as of 17:08, 9 September 2020

1 Introduction

This tutorial is mainly intended for those who are building a Zynthian Box using one of the official kits, that i offer here:

Zynthian Shop

Specifically, the instructions are for the assembly of kits v2 (version 2), those using the All-In-One circuit and the PiScreen 3.5' display. If you have an older kit v1, based in the 2in1 circuit and the PiTFT 2.8' display, you better should read this tutorial.

IMG 2287.JPG

Anyway, the instructions are quite detailed and can be used as inspiration for building a custom Zynthian Box from scratch. Of course, you will have to be creative if you want to do it in such a way ;-)

IMG 2280.JPG

2 Bill of Materials

3 Some definitions

3.1 Zynthian

It's an open project with the goal of creating an Open Synth Platform based in Free Software and Open Hardware Specifications & Designs (when available). It's a community-driven project. If you are here, probably you already know all this ;-)

3.2 Zynthian Software

The Zynthian Software stack consist of:

+ GNU Linux Operating System: Raspbian Jessie (Minibian is used in the most recent SD images)
+ Jack Audio Daemon
+ MOD-HOST + MOD-UI software, from ModDevices (github repositories)
+ A collection of standalone Synth Engines & LV2 Plugins (see Supported Synth Engines & Plugins)
+ Zynthian User Interface (github repository)

All the software used by Zynthian is Free Software (free as in freedom, not as in free beer) and it's covered by the GPL license or similar. If you don't know what i'm talking about, please, take a look to this:

What is Free Software?

The easiest way of getting the software is downloading the last official SD image from here:

Download Last Stable ZynthianOS SD-image

It's a 8 GB compressed image file (plenty of soundfonts) compiled for Raspberry Pi 3.

These SD card images include all the Zynthian software, properly configured for working with the official kits. Completely ready to use. Plug and play!

After downloading the SD-image, you have to write it to a micro-SD card. You need a micro-SD card with a minimum size of 16 GB, although you can use a bigger one if you want.

If you don't know how to do it, you can use Etcher (free software works on Mac, Windows or Linux) to flash the image onto the micro-SD card. Or do it manually! There is a really good manual for this at this link.

Finally, if you like, you can build your own SD image following these instructions:

Building the SD Image using the Setup Script

3.3 Zynthian Box

A Zynthian Box is a hardware device, a small digital computer designed to run the Zynthian Software. Currently it's based in the Raspberry Pi platform, but it could be easily adapted to other computer platforms.

This is a sketch with the main blocks of the official Zynthian Box:

Zynthian hardware scheme.png

In the project's repositories you will find all the electric schemes, PCB specifications, Herber files, etc. to build your own Zynthian Box from scratch:

- Zynthian Hardware Repository
- Zynthian Case Repository

The official version is the canonical reference. Of course, you don't have to build the official version. You can build your customized Zynthian Box modifying and improving what you want. If you do so, some feedback would be very appreciated ;-)

3.4 Zynthian Kit

A Zynthian Kit is a set of specific and generic electronic modules designed or picked for building a Zynthian Box. This tutorial refers to the official Zynthian Kit v2, that is composed of these specific parts:

+ 4 x Controller Modules (rotary encoder + switch)
+ 1 x All-In-One Module (GPIO expander + MIDI IN/OUT/THRU)
+ 1 x Main ribbon bus cable
+ Wiring Kit with JST connectors

IMG 1286.JPG

and these generic parts:

+ 1 x Raspberry Pi 2/3
+ 1 x Hifiberry DAC+ (also pro & lite)
+ 1 x PiScreen 3.5' Touch-Display

IMG 1299.JPG


Of course, other arrangements and combinations are possible. You can easily configure your hardware using the Webconf Tool, or if it doesn't work, tweaking from the command line.

You can take a look to some of the alternate builds made by some community members:

- A build with variations, by vagnscott
- Another Wiring, by Imager
- Success Cases

3.5 Zynthian Case

It's the enclosure used to put on all the parts. Again, this tutorial refers to the official Zynthian Aluminum Case v2, that is designed to be used in conjunction with the official Kit v2.

This case is available as a kit, including all the needed connectors, knobs, bolts & nuts:

IMG 4752.JPG

If you intend to use a different soundcard or display, probably it won't fit the case and you will have to modify it. Of course, you can build your own customized case. Here you can find some examples from the community:

- Zynthian Enclosures
- Success Cases

4 Building the Zynthian Kit parts

4.1 Prerequisites

Building your own Zynthian Box is not very difficult, but you will need all your attention, some basic tools and a few skills. Read the instructions and observe the detailed photos carefully. If you get in trouble you can ask the community:

https://discourse.zynthian.org

4.1.1 Required Skills

For building the hardware you should have the following basic competences:

+ Soldering
+ Basic understanding of reading basic electronic circuit diagrams
+ Enjoyment of work with electronic hardware and parts

If you have not soldered before, you should read a good soldering tutorial, or perhaps you would prefer the Soldering is Easy comic book by MightOhm.

4.1.2 Tools

And this is the list of required and recommended tools:

+ Soldering iron
+ Tin-solder
+ Wire-cutter
+ Small Plier
+ Screw-drivers Philips
+ Wrench, for potentiometer nuts (recommended)
+ PCB holder for soldering (very recommended!)
+ Small iron brush (very recommended!)
+ Magnifiying glass (recommended)
+ A vice (recommended)
+ A hand saw for metal (recommended)
+ Multimeter (recommended!)

4.2 Some general recommendations

1. Be careful to protect the components from electrostatic discharge. This is most critical for the ICs and the diodes. Be careful with your fingers. Your body can hold a good amount of static electric charge. Under some circumstances that charge can be drained through some of the components that you are handling and this could break the component. Try to hold the PCBs by the borders and discharge your body frequently touching some "ground" with your fingers.

2. Before soldering, please, check that you are soldering in the right side of PCB, also that components orientation is correct (ICs, diode)

3. When soldering, always avoid overheating. Electronic components doesn't like overheat! This is specially important when soldering the big connector in the HifiBerry soundcard. If you overheat the circuit, probably you will break some electronic component and you will end with a dead board. I recommend to use a fan while soldering. If not, you can use your mouth ;-) Also, don't solder the contacts in order. It's better to jump from one to another in the oposite corner. If you are not sure of your soldering skills, please, take your time and do some practice with inexpensive components and prototyping board.

4. After finishig the soldering, brush smoothly all the contacts. You may use a small iron brush. After that, blow over the circuit to remove any remaining tin.

5. Inspect visually all the soldered contacts. You could use a magnifying glass for verifying that every soldered pin looks good. If you are not sure, perhaps you could add more tin or re-solder the pin. Also, you could use a multimeter for testing the dubious contacts.

6. And of course, double-check everything! Assembling and wiring process are prone to errors. Don't be too confident ;-) Re-check component's orientation (ICs and diode), wiring, etc.

4.3 Assembling the Controller Modules

The controller module kit is composed of:

+ 4 x controller PCBs
+ 4 x rotary encoders with switch (PEC11R-4215K-S0024)
+ 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1)
+ 8 x ceramic capacitor 10nF (c2, c3)
+ 4 x 4-pin JST male-angle connector 

IMG 4728.JPG

This components are used to build the 4 controller modules that form the input side of the physical Zynthian User Interface. Each controller embed an incremental rotary encoder and a switch, so 4 wires (A,B,SW,GND) are needed for connecting it.

IMG 4731.JPG

These are the steps for building one module:

0. Be sure that you have read and understdood these recommendations.
1. Bend the encoder's securing tabs to 75º, so you can insert it in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Please, be very careful when bending the tabs as the encoder case is quite fragil and could be deformed. I recommend to use a small plier and not reaching to 90º.
2. Place the 100nF capacitor in C1 position (the most right!). This is for debouncing the push switch (SW).
3. Place the 2 x 10nF capacitors in C2 & C3 positions. These are for debouncing the rotary encoder contacts (A,B).
3. Solder the encoder and capacitors carefully.
4. Place the JST connector in the downside of the PCB, with the angle pins facing inwards (look the photo!)
5. Solder the JST connector carefully.
7. Use the plier to close the encoder's tabs again, trying to "catch" the PCB.

IMG 4781.JPG

You have to build 4 controller modules, so you to have to repeat the steps 4 times.

4.4 Assembling the All-In-One Module

The All-In-One module kit is composed of:

+ 1 x All-In-One PCB
+ 1 x GPIO-expander MCP23017 => 28-pin IC
+ 3 x opto-coupler H11L1 (OC1,OC2,OC3) => 6-pin IC
+ 3 x diode 1N4148 (D1,D3,D4)
+ 1 x diode 1N5819 (D2)
+ 3 x resistor 1K (R3,R4,R9) => brown-black-red (*)
+ 1 x resistor 10K (R10) => brown-black-orange (*)
+ 1 x resistor 100 (R1) => brown-black-brown (*)
+ 2 x resistor 4K7 (R5,R7) => yellow-purple-red (*)
+ 3 x resistor 470 (R2,R6,R8) => yellow-purple-brown (*)
+ 4 x ceramic capacitor 100nF (C1,C2,C3,C4)
+ 7 x 4-pin JST male connector
+ 1 x 40-pin-double-row male connector

(*) Read from left to right with the tolerance ring (gold or silver) on the right.

IMG 4726.JPG


These are the steps for building the All-In-One module:

0. Be sure that you have read and understood these recommendations.
1. Place the passive components (resistors & capacitors) in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!).
2. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating!
3. Place the ICs and diodes in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). Put attention to the orientation of these components!!
4. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! (*)
5. Place the connectors in the upside of the PCB (the labeled side!). 
6. Solder the components carefully. Always avoid overheating! (*)

(*) You could use some tape for fixing the components while soldering, specially for ICs and connectors.

IMG 1251.JPG

IMG 1252.JPG

IMG 1277.JPG

4.5 Tweaking the HifiBerry DAC+ soundcard

If you are using the HifiBerry DAC+ soundcard (also lite & pro versions), you should add 2 extra connectors to the board:

+ 40 row-pin GPIO male connector, for connecting the main ribbon bus cable
+ 3 pin header connector, for connecting the extra audio line-out Jack connectors

Both connectors must be placed on the top side of the board, so you should solder the contacts on the bottom side.

WARNING! Soldering the big 40-pin connector can be difficult if you don't have enough practice. Please, before starting be sure that you have read and understood these recommendations.

IMG 1369.JPG

IMG 1370.JPG

4.6 Tweaking the OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5' touch-display

The standard OzzMaker PiScreen 3.5 'touch-display have 2 connectors: a female connector ready for connecting the display as a hat and a male connector placed in the side. The official aluminum case and the ribbon cable are designed for the side male connector. The female connector can be annoying and should be removed for better closing the case.

If you got your PiScreen from a "Bundle-All" kit, you probably don't have this annoying female connector, so you are lucky and don't need to do anything here. If you have it, then take the saw and remove the connector carefully.

4.7 Other Soundcards and Displays

If you are using a different soundcard or display, you'll have to see the best way to integrate it. If you do so, please, don't forget to give good feedbak in the forum or here, in the wiki.

In the forum you can see what other users have done, and of course, don't doubt to ask whatever you want!

https://discourse.zynthian.org/c/building-zynthian

4.8 Building the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors

Before mounting the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires that allow connecting it to the All-In-One circuit using a JST connector. Doing it in that way is rather more comfortable than trying to solder inside the case with all the wiring mess.

IMG 4777.JPG

JST Connector wires

Midiconnfront.jpg
* JST White (1) => LED's Anode (LED's red wire/long lead)
* JST Yellow (2) => LED's Cathode (LED's black wire/short lead)
* JST Black (3) => pin 5 of MIDI connector
* JST Red (4) => pin 4 of MIDI connector

If you want (i strongly recommend you do it!), you can protect the contacts using heat-shrink sleeve (the red sleeve pieces in the photo). In that case, remember to insert the sleeve pieces before soldering ;-)

IMG 1276.JPG


Depending of your case version, you will need to build 2 or 3 MIDI connectors.

4.9 Building the JACK Audio-Out connectors

In the same way, before mounting the Jack connectors into the case we will solder the needed wires. You can use heat-shrink sleeve too.

IMG 4774.JPG

IMG 1272.JPG

5 Case Mounting

5.1 Assemble the Main Computing Block

The main computing block is composed by the RBPi and the HifiBerry soundcard, and shouold be assembled using the next set of separator & bolts:

IMG 1293.JPG

For easier assembling, you should follow the next steps:

1. fix the 2x4 separators to the RBPi. The bigger one must be on top and the smaller one on bottom.
2. insert the Hifiberry soundcard in the RBPi. 
3. screw the 4 bolts on top of the HifiBerry.

IMG 1353.JPG

IMG 1348.JPG

IMG 1351.JPG

5.2 Secure the Main Computing Block

After assembling the main computing block, you should secure it to the case. Use 4 black M2.5 bolts (see photo above).

IMG 1314.JPG

5.3 Secure the All-In-One module

Secure the All-In-One module to the case using 4 x separators and 8 x M2.5 bolts.

IMG 1294.JPG

IMG 1356.JPG

5.4 Secure the Jack connectors

Put the rings on the outer side of the case to avoid damaging the case surface when you tighten the nuts.

IMG 1371.JPG

5.5 Secure the MIDI-IN/OUT/THRU connectors

Just insert the connector with the JST-wire from the out-side of the case and the nut from the innerside. A pair of pliers can be useful for tighten.

IMG 1383.JPG


5.6 Mount the MIDI activity LEDS

Insert the 3 LEDS in the case holes. You may want to push the LEDs with something more rigid than your finger. The screwdriver's handle could be fine.

IMG 2223.JPG IMG 2224.JPG

When it's done, you have to solder the 2 LED wires (red/black) with the 2 spare wires on the MIDI JST harness (white/yellow). Polarity is important, so don't cross the wires:

* JST White wire (1) => LED's Anode (LED's red wire/long lead)
* JST Yellow wire (2) => LED's Cathode (LED's black wire/short lead)

After soldering all the 3 LEDs, you may want to protect the connection with heat shrink sleeve, adhesive tape or hot melt glue.

IMG 2226.JPG

5.7 Secure the Display

For fixing the display to the case cover, you have to use this set:

IMG 1295.JPG

It's composed of 4 bolts, 4 nuts and 4 nylon separators. Before fixing the screen, don't forget to remove the protective plastic sheet.

IMG 1387.JPG

5.8 Secure the Controllers

Fix the 4 controller modules to the case cover using the 4 bolts and washers attached to every rotary encoder.

IMPORTANT: For avoiding problems while closing the case, i recommend to mount the controller modules with the connectors facing one another. See the photo below.

IMG 1393.JPG

IMG 1401.JPG

5.9 Insert the knobs

You should insert the knobs into the encoders before closing the case. This will avoid forcing the encoders too much as otherwise, you could break them. Follow these simple steps and you wouldn't have any problem:

* moisten with water or saliva the encoder stem and the knob hole
* press the encoder PCB with the finger from the rear side while pushing the knob from the front side until is completely inserted

5.10 Stick the rubber feet

Zynthian mounting case bottom.jpg

6 Connecting everything

The new Zynthian Kit 2 is designed to use JST connectors, so connecting everything is really straight-forward:

6.1 Connect the Ribbon Bus cable

Connect the Main Ribbon Bus cable to the RBPi's 40-pin header and also to the All-In-One module

IMG 4741.JPG

IMG 1474.JPG

6.2 Connect the controllers (1)

Connect the 4 double JST cables to the 4 controller connectors on the All-In-One module (CTRL1, CTRL2, CTRL3, CTRL4)

IMG 4744.JPG

IMG 1479.JPG

6.3 Connect the MIDI connectors & activity LEDs

Connect the 2 JST cables from the MIDI connectors to the MIDI-IN and the MIDI-OUT/THRU connectors on the All-In-One module. Note that currently only 2 connectors are available in the official aluminum case, so you have to choose what do you prefer: MIDI-OUT or MIDI-THRU ;-)

IMG 1465.JPG

At this point, your Zynthian Box should look something like this:

IMG 1409.JPG

6.4 Connect the controllers (2)

Connect the 4 x Controller Modules following the right numbering: from top to bottom and from left to right.

Zynthian controllers.png

IMG 1412.JPG

6.5 Connect the Audio Jack connectors

Connect the Jack connector to the auxiliar audio-out connector on the HifiBerry soundcard. It's the 3-pin JST connector that you soldered before:

IMG 1489.JPG

Note:

At this point, if you have a v2+ kit (HifiBerry DAc+ADC soundcard with audio input), you should take a look to the v3 kit instructions.

6.6 Connect the Display

And finally, connect the ribbon's 26-pin connector to the Display's male side connector. Put attention to the orientation. The red wire should be the pin 1 that as marked in the display's PCB surface.

IMG 1501.JPG

7 Testing your Zynthian Box

And that's all. Your Zynthian Box is almost ready to boot. I recommend that you double-check everything before trying to boot.

7.1 Double-check part's assembling and wiring

It's easy to make a mistake while assembling the parts or connecting the wires. Some errors can be dangerous for the electronic components (short-circuits, some specific bad-wiring combinations) so it's better to be sure that everything is correctly assembled and connected.

Put special attention to ribbon bus connection and verify that red wire is on pin 1 for every connector. Also put attention to audio jack connectors and check that they are correctly connected to the Hifiberry soundcard.

7.2 First Boot

When you are sure that everything is in its place, it's time to boot the machine, so:

1. Insert the SD-card with the zynthian image ready to run. If you don't have one yet, read this. You can insert the SD-card through the "window" on the bottom-side of the case. Also, if the case is still open, you can do it from the top.
2. Plug the mini-usb power connector. A good 5V micro-usb charger is recommended (> 2 Amp).

These are the stages that you should see while booting:

1. After 5-10 seconds, it will show the Zynthian splash screen
2. After 3-4 seconds, it will go black
3. If you are using a fresh zynthian image and it's the first boot, the stages 1 and 2 will be repeated
4. After 5-10 seconds, the zynthian UI will be shown

If you get the Zynthian UI, congratulations!!! You are really close to get it!!

IMG 2490.JPG

If you don't get an error screen or a blank screen, bad luck! Probably you made some mistake during the mounting process. You have to locate and solve the problem(s).

If you are using the Aruk RC-3 SD image (you should!), you are lucky because this SD image is pre-configured for working with the kit v2. If not, perhaps you need to configure the software for working with the kit v2. The simplest way of doing it is using the webconf tool:

  • Connect your zynthian to your local network using an ethernet cable (RJ-45).
  • From your web browser, access the zynthian's webconf tool by typing "zynthian.local" in the address bar. If this doesn't work for you, you should try with the IP. You can get the IP of your zynthian by navigating to the Admin Menu and clicking "Network Info". You should do that by using the "touch" interface: Click the top bar with a stick (or your nail, if it's not too wide) until you are in the Admin Menu. Once you are there, go down and click "Network Info".
  • Type the password (raspberry) for login into the webconf tool.
  • Once you are logged in, you have to access Hardware->Kit and select "Kit V2".
  • Save the changes and reboot your Zynthian.

If you are using a really old SD image (you shouldn't!) that is not pre-configure for the Kit v2, then you have to specify every part of your hardware configuration. These are the adjustments you have to set:

  • Display: PiScreen 3.5 (v2)
  • Audio: HifiBerry DAC+ / HifiBerry DAC+ADC
  • Wiring: MCP23017_EXTRA
  • Style: FontSize = 14

7.3 Test the Controllers & UI

If you get into the Zynthian UI, then you should be in the 'Layer list' screen. Let's start testing that your controllers are working OK.

1. Rotate the SELECT controller up & down for selecting the different options in the Layers menu. 
2. Push SELECT to create a New 'Synth Layer'. You should get into the 'Engine Selection' screen.

IMG 2496.JPG

If it doesn't works, try rotating/pushing the 'learn/snapshot' controller. Perhaps you have cross-wired the 3 & 4 controllers and in that case, you have to fix the wiring. If it doesn't work, try pushing the other two controllers and rotating the controllers. If something happens, most probably you have reversed the wiring order when connecting the controllers. Double-check the wiring again.

3. Rotate the SELECT controller to choose the engine you want to instance for the new layer. 

The selector must go down when rotating clockwise and go up when rotating counter-clockwise. If the rotation sense is reversed, you should check the wiring. Perhaps some harness is faulty. The wires color sequence should be: red, black, yellow, green.

4. Select the ZynAddSubFX engine, select channel #1, bank 'Collection' and preset 'Metal Drips'. 

IMG 2497.JPG

You should get into the 'Instrument Control' screen.

IMG 2500.JPG

5. Rotate every control to test that it works and that the rotation sense is correct. 

If some controller doesn't work correctly, check the wiring again. You could try to figure what is happening by analyzing the observed behaviour.

6. Push SELECT to move to the next controller screen. Bold push to select a controller screen from the list.
7. Push BACK. You should go back to the 'Preset Selection' screen. 

IMG 2499.JPG

8. Push BACK again. You should go back to the 'Bank Selection' screen. 

IMG 2498.JPG

9. Push LAYER again to return to the 'Layer Selection' screen. Try to create another layer following the same procedure.

IMG 2509.JPG

10. Push 'SNAPSHOT' to get into the 'Snapshot' screen. Select 'New Snapshot' and your first snapshot will be stored.

IMG 2506.JPG

If everything is working OK, then you should read the User's Guide and start enjoying your Zynthian Box, but before that ... why not enjoying a little bit? Connect your MIDI keyboard, your speakers and check this out:

Bank 'net-wisdom', Preset 'Vangelis Saw - C'

Keep pushing a single note (or a chord) and move the cutoff and resonance controllers. Enjoy! ;-)

7.4 Test the Audio Output

1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connectors) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
2. Boot your Zynthian. You should be in the initial 'Layer Selection' screen.
3. Push BACK and you will get into the 'Admin' screen.
4. Select 'Audio Test' option and push 'SELECT'. You should hear the test audio-track: a nice afrocuban stuff ;-)
5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing, and 'BACK' again to return to the "Layer Selection' screen.

If you hear nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to locate and solve the problem(s).

7.5 Test the MIDI subsystem

1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
2. Boot your Zynthian, select FluidSynth engine, channel #1 and 'TimGM6mb' bank. Select some instrument, like "Piano 1".
3. You could add more layers for completing the band ;-)
3. Push BACK, holding the switch pushed more than 2 seconds. You should get into the 'Admin' screen.
4. Select 'MIDI Test' option and push 'SELECT'. You should hear the test midi-track ('Take Five') interpreted by your Zynthian's band ;-)
5. Push 'BACK' to stop the playing

If you hear nothing, please, check the amplifier, speakers, cabling, gain, volume, etc. If nothing works, you have to locate and solve the problem(s).

7.6 Test the MIDI-USB inputs

1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument
3. Connect a MIDI-USB keyboard to any USB port. The keyboard should be configured to use channel #1.
3. After 2-3 seconds , play something with your keyboard. A simple Chopin's Nocturni would be enough. You should hear your music. If you don't like it, probably you should take some piano lessons, same as me ;-)

If this doesn't work, you have to locate and solve the problem(s).

7.7 Test the MIDI-IN connector

1. Connect the audio output (RCA or Jack connector) to your amplifier or auto-amplified speakers.
2. Boot your Zynthian, select ZynAddSubFX, channel #1, bank and instrument.
3. Connect your keyboard's MIDI-OUT to the Zynthian's MIDI-IN using a MIDI cable.
3. After 2-3 seconds, play something with your keyboard. OK! A single melody can do the task. You should hear your song ;-)

If this doesn't work, you have to locate and solve the problem(s).

8 Final steps

Once everything is in its place and you have tested that it works, it's time to close the case ...

8.1 Close the case

Take your time to see how to bend and drive the cables to get a good fitting when closing the case.


IMG 1626.JPG


Finally, screw-drive the 8 sheet-threader bolts for securing the case, 4 each side.


IMG 2287.JPG


9 Update your Zynthian Box

If you are using the official Zynthian SD Image, the first thing you should do after booting up your Zynthian Box and having the controllers working OK is update the software:

- connect your Zynthian Box to your router using an ethernet cable
- from the admin menu, click update software
- from the admin menu, click restart UI (or reboot)

The update process can take some time. Be patient. If you get some ERROR message while updating, please, ask in the forum. You can send a photo or description of the error message.

You can also update the software using the webconf tool, or from the command line.

10 Locating and Solving problems

In this section i will try to give you some tips for locating and solving the problems you may have.

For finding and solving problems, i really recommend to connect a HDMI display to the RBPi. It will give you accurate information during the booting sequence. Also, if you connect an USB keyboard, you could login into the system and get extra information, inspect the logs, etc.

10.1 The display don't show the zynthian splash screen on boot

In that case, probably the system is not booting correctly. You could try to connect a HDMI display and see if the system is booting. If you can't see the booting sequence, then you should re-burn your SD-card with the Zynthian image. Also, check that your image file is correct by using the SHA1 signature.

10.2 You get the zynthian error screen with the IP

Your hardware seems to be incorrectly configured. You should access the webconf tool and configure your hardware.

10.3 Your controllers doesn't work

You make a mistake while connecting the controllers or your hardware (wiring layout) is incorrectly configured. You should access the webconf tool and configure your hardware.

10.4 You can't solve the problem

If you can't find a solution for your problem, ask the community:

https://discourse.zynthian.org

Also, if you found a solution for a problem not described here, please send feedback to the community, or better, edit this wiki! ;-)

11 Technical Reference

Finally, i have included here some detailed schemes. People hacking the standard Zynthian design would find it very useful. Also, if you have some problem and need to "debug", you would find it useful too.

You can find all this info and much more in the project's Hardware Repository.

11.1 All-In-One Schematic

This is the electrical scheme of the All-In-One circuit:

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11.2 RBPi GPIO

Raspberry-Pi-j8header-2b.png