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Building Zynthian MINI V2 (view source)

Revision as of 11:54, 6 May 2024

6,901 bytes added ,  6 May
→‎Assembling Zynthian MINI V2 into 3d printable enclosure
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[[File:Zynthian-on-piano-02.png|thumb]]
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[[File:Zynthian-on-piano-02.png|600px|right]]
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<gallery>
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== Introduction ==
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Example.jpg|Caption1
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Example.jpg|Caption2
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</gallery>
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Zynthian Mini kit is a cost effective approach to build zynthian with intention to give opportunity:
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Zynthian MINI kit is a cost effective approach to build a zynthian box with similar functionality to v5 kit.
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* to zynthian developers to get functional zynthian similar to v5 where they can do most of the testing
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* to musician to get to know zynthian and learn their features before deciding to but the professional kit
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The main features of zynthian MINI are:
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'''The ''pros'':'''
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* include encoders and switches that controll zynthian software in the same way as official zynthian v5 kit using the MCP23017 i/o extender
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* Lower price
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* include MIDI IN, MIDI OUT and MIDI THRU
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* Possibility of inserting a standard RPi-hat
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* include a I2S DAC for AUDIO OUT based on PMC5102 chip that is affordable to buy
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* Smaller format. It's slighty higher than V5, but quite shorter.
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* More DIY! You will learn a lot more while building it.
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'''The ''cons'':'''
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* No audio input
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* No amplified headphones output
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* No separated TRS audio connectors. No balanced output/input.
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* No USB-B connector. Connecting to PC as USB device is more difficult, but still doable.
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* Lower performance at medium-high ambient temperature. Overclocking could cause over-heating. The plastic/fiber-glass case can't be used as a heat-sink.
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* No RGB LED feedback on push buttons.
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* More difficult to assemble. It requires more time and greater skills (i.e. soldering some electronic parts on the PCB)
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* Not so robust. Not so cool, but ... heyyy!! MINI-V2 is also quite cool! ;-)
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'''The main features of zynthian MINI are:'''
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* encoders and switches to control zynthian software in the same way as official zynthian v5 kit, using the MCP23017 i/o extender
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* standard DIN-5 connectors for MIDI IN, OUT and THRU
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* it uses a I2S DAC for audio out based on PMC5102 chip that is affordable to buy
 
* does not need any cabling inside for easy assembling
 
* does not need any cabling inside for easy assembling
 
* does not need the case to test it but it include design of two type of enclosure
 
* does not need the case to test it but it include design of two type of enclosure
 
** simple enclosure that only cover the top and bottom part of the device that can be also produced in the same way as PCBs
 
** simple enclosure that only cover the top and bottom part of the device that can be also produced in the same way as PCBs
 
** full enclosure that can be 3d printed
 
** full enclosure that can be 3d printed
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* all connectors are easy to reach (V1 does not have RPI connectors aligned to the edge of the PCB)
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* all RPi connectors are easy to reach
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To save the cost of building the Zynthian MINI, we had to sacrifice certain features that some professional musicians would need on the stage such as:
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Zynthian MINI is currently at version 2. Previous version 1 was more similar to official V4 kit with only 4 buttons but it is not maintained anymore.
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* no audio-in
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* no TRS audio connectors
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* not best in the class DAC for audio out
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* no rigid metal case
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* no zynaptik analog inputs
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Zynthian is currently at version 2. Previous version 1 was more similar to official V4 kit with only 4 buttons but it is not maintained anymore.
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== Requirements ==
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To assemble zynthian mini V2 version you will require:
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To assemble zynthian MINI V2 version you will require:
    
* PCB that need to be produced based on KiCad design that you can find in [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw/tree/master/MINI_V2 zynthian hardware] repository.  
 
* PCB that need to be produced based on KiCad design that you can find in [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-hw/tree/master/MINI_V2 zynthian hardware] repository.  
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* Components that need to be soldered to this PCB.
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* Electronic parts needed to be soldered on the PCB.
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* 5" Screen
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* 5" Touchscreen (DSI)
 
* Raspberry Pi 4 with heatsink
 
* Raspberry Pi 4 with heatsink
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* optional: zynthian MINI V2 3d printable case
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* ''Optional:'' 3D printed plastic case  
    
== Assembling the PCB ==
 
== Assembling the PCB ==
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* Quantity: 1
 
* Quantity: 1
 
* Where to buy: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003189675117.html
 
* Where to buy: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003189675117.html
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2. Capacitor - Electrolytic - Polarized
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2. Capacitor - Electrolytic - Polarized
 
* Value: 100u   
 
* Value: 100u   
 
* PCB label: C4   
 
* PCB label: C4   
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* Quantity: 5   
 
* Quantity: 5   
 
* Where to buy: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005894912292.html
 
* Where to buy: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005894912292.html
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4. Capacitors - Ceramic - Non-Polarized  100n and 10n
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4. Capacitors - Ceramic - Non-Polarized  100n and 10n
 
* Value: 100n   
 
* Value: 100n   
 
* PCB label: C22,C16,C19,C13,C23,C20,C9,C26,C27,C32,C8,C18,C21,C34,C33,C17,C25,C11,C24,C31,C12,C15,C10,C14   
 
* PCB label: C22,C16,C19,C13,C23,C20,C9,C26,C27,C32,C8,C18,C21,C34,C33,C17,C25,C11,C24,C31,C12,C15,C10,C14   
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== Assembling Zynthian MINI V2 into 3d printable enclosure ==
 
== Assembling Zynthian MINI V2 into 3d printable enclosure ==
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Zynthian MINI V2 3D printable case consists of four parts:
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;Top:This is most important part because it encloses all internal parts together. You can print just this part and have zynthian mini much more secured then just standing on stand offs. 
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;Bottom:Bottom part closes the bottom of the case and comes with opening for the SD Card.
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;SD card door:This is a SD card door that is attached to bottom part for easy access to zynthian's raspberry pi SD Card.
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;Legs:These are small legs that are attached (glued) to the bottom part. They are designed to be a separate part from bottom part so that bottom part can be placed to printing bed and sliced without too much additional support. There is one stl file for one leg so you will need to print four of these.
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You can either print this case yourself if you have a printer or give these 4 files to some of your friends that have it and point them to instructions here. Also you can request somebody to print this for you on [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6606399 thingiverse].
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=== 3D printing instructions ===
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Download all four parts from zynthian MINI V2 github repository.
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* [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-case/tree/master/Mini_V2_3d_printable/top.stl top.stl]
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* [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-case/tree/master/Mini_V2_3d_printable/bottom.stl bottom.stl]
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* [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-case/tree/master/Mini_V2_3d_printable/sd-card-door.stl sd-card-door.stl]
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* [https://github.com/zynthian/zynthian-case/tree/master/Mini_V2_3d_printable/leg.stl leg.stl]
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Print first the following parts together top, sd card door and four leg parts by:
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* importing them to printer's slicing software
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* make copy of leg part so taht there are four of them
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* lay the top side of top.stl part onto the printer bed
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* lay the top side of sd-card-door.stl part onto the printer bed
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* leave legs as they are imported
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* arrange all part nicely aso that they do not overlap (you can use slicers auto arange feature)
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* set "zynthian mini" logo with "no support" instructions - there is not need to add support to these letters (it depend on the slicer how you do that but typically you can do this by painting them with no support indicator)
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* slice it with 15% infill and with support
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* do you standard preparation of you printer before prinitng (e.g. bed  level, z offset etc)
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* upload the print instructions from slicer and start printing
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[[File:Slicer-screenshot-01.png|400px]]
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This will print around 3:30 hours on average commodity printers these days that can easily do 250mm/s such is Elegoo's Neptune 4 or Anycubic Kobra 2.
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<embedvideo alignment="inline" dimensions="263" service="youtube" description="Timelapse of this first print.">https://youtu.be/5RSKHbG7Gxg</embedvideo>
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Then print bottom part. Lay bottom side of bottom part onto the printer bed. Use the same settings as for previous  parts. Bottom part will be printed much quicker.
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=== Assembling all parts into 3D printed case ===
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Here is the list of all components required to assemble zynthian mini V2 into the case:
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[[File:Case-assembly-parts.png|400px]]
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# Case Top part
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# Case Bottom part
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# Case SD Card door part
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# Case legs parts
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# brass heat set inserts (quantity 8) - M2.5xL4xOD3.5 - can be purchased [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006071488810.html here]
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# screws for brass heat set inserts (quanity 8) - M2.5, 6mm - can be purchased [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001248931159.html here]
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# 5" DSI screen and its screws - can be purchased [https://github.com/sstojos/zynthian-mini/wiki/V2-Components-required here]
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# zynthian MINI V2 PCB - check instructions above how to assemble it
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# enncoder caps (quantity 4) and nuts - check PCB components required above where to buy it
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# Neutrik 1/4 stereo connector cap - can be purchased [https://github.com/sstojos/zynthian-mini/wiki/V2-Components-requiredhere]
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# raspberry pi 4 with heatsink
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# raspbery pi posts and their screws - their size depend on heatsink - the standard zynthian MINI V2 PCB build recommends two spacers connector which is 16mm long so that there is enough space for raspberry pi to cool - therefore if heatsink is 7mm then raspberry pi posts need to be 9mm (7mm+9mm=16mm) 
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# HAT posts (quantity 4) - 11mm standard.
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# Tools required - soldering iron for inserting heat set inserts and small phillips screw driver
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=== Insert 3 heat set inserts into top and 5 into bottom part ===
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Heat set inserts are easily inserted using soldering iron. The first you need to put insert into the position like this:
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[[File:Assembly-1.png|400px]]
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Then put soldering iron on top of the insert and gently pushed it inside the hole so that it is fully in like this:
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[[File:Assembly-2.png|400px]]
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Here is the location of holes where heat set inserts need to be inserted for top part
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[[File:Assembly-3.png|400px]]
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Here is the location of holes where heat set inserts need to be inserted for bottom part
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[[File:Assembly-4.png|400px]]
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There are other 2 holes for heat set inserts on the other side of the bottom part.
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=== Put screen inside the top part ===
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First attach the cable to the screen. Then lay down the top part face down on the flat surface and put the screen through the screen opening like this:
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[[File:Assembly-5.png|400px]]
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Check that screen top is flat with top part face:
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[[File:Assembly-6.png|400px]]
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Screen opening on top part is snag enough to keep screen in place while you are moving the top part even though screen is not yet fixed to anything. Don't be confused that screen is up side down - this is intentional so that screen cable connector is close to the raspberry pi connector.
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=== Screw raspberry pi posts and HAT posts to the PCB ===
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Now screw raspberry pi posts and HAT posts to PCB. Here is their locations on PCB:
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[[File:Assembly-7.png|400px]]
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=== Put PCB into the case and attach the screen screws ===
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Here is the location of screen screws on the PCB:
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[[File:Assembly-8.png|400px]]
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=== Screw PCB to the case ===
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Here is the location of PCB screws that need to be screwed into the case:
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[[File:Assembly-9.png|400px]]
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=== Screw encoder screw nuts ===
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[[File:Assembly-10.png|400px]]
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=== Screw Neutrik connector nut ===
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[[File:Assembly-11.png|400px]]
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=== Attach screen cable to the raspberry pi ===
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[[File:Assembly-12.png|400px]]
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=== Connect raspberry pi to the PCB ===
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Here is location of raspberry pi post screws that need to be screwed
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[[File:Assembly-13.png|400px]]
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=== Attach the sd card door to bottom pat using a screw and glue legs to bottom part ===
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[[File:Assembly-14.png|400px]]
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=== Screw bottom part to top part ===
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[[File:Assembly-15.png|400px]]
Stojos
63

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